Santa Cruz de La Palma

Overview

One of the prettiest capitals of the Canary Islands is Santa Cruz de la Palma, where people come for the sun and stay for the specialist clothing shops, fantastic Canarian architecture and the historical marvels. In a day you could pause at an ancient church before heading to one of the many plazas, followed by a visit to the military or natural science museum.   Behind this town towers the impressive volcanic crater la Caldereta, the lava of which has flowed out to create the ground on which the town was built.

Santa Cruz de la Palma means Holy Cross of La Palma in Spanish, and is located on the eastern coast of La Palma.  The town, the second largest on the island, is the capital of La Palma, and has a population of around 18,000.

From as far back as the 16th Century Santa Cruz de la Palma has been an important port town and the age and style of some of the buildings reflects its history.  The Renaissance architecture around Plaza España is up there with the best in the Canary Islands.

History

Founded by Spanish conquerer Alonso Fernandez de Lugo in 1493, the town was originally called Villa da Apuron.  Fernandez's victory here meant the Spanish conquest was complete, with La Palma being the last of the islands to be conquered. Originally the town was used only as a port to the Americas, exporting goods like sugarcane which was produced on the island of La Palma.

After a relatively peaceful 50 years, in 1553 the people of Santa Cruz de la Palma were hit with a surprise attack by French corsairs.  They seized the city for nine days and destroyed it, after which they were finally expelled.  The ruins of Santa Cruz de la Palma that were left behind gave rise to a new city centre being developed, a lot of which can be seen today.  The historical and artistic significance of this redeveloped town are a massive drawcard for tourists in La Palma.

Famous fortifications such as Castillo de Santa Catalina and Castle of Santa Cruz de Barrio still stand there.

In 1558 the introduction of the first Court of the Indies extended trade links in the town, and it became an important trade centre.  This in turn gave rise to the new industry of boat building in the town, and the town now houses a military museum where you can see entirely reconstructed boats from its history.

The other thing Santa Cruz de la Palma is noted for is its early introduction of democracy.  A power struggle against the govenors in council in 1773 led to the introduction of electing political representatives.  It was the first place in Spanish empire to do so, and was before the United States had even drawn up their constitution.

Culture

Santa Cruz de la Palma consists largely of hotels, apartments and colourful homes up in the hills, so it has a strong tourism focus and shopping culture.  Yet it remains largely unscathed by the tourists, be it because it's further out of reach than Tenerife or Gran Canaria, or that the hoardes of people prefer to be in more populated areas.  It is home to a sense of curious wonder courtesy of the diversity of attractions; old churches cast shadows over lively bustling streets and incredible history lies amongst the buildings.

One would assume Santa Cruz de la Palma had an obsession with shoes, after the legendary fashionista Manolo Blanhik was born here in 1942, but this is not the case.  Shopping instead is centred around specialist clothing shops. 

History dramatically effects today's cultural climate, with Renaissance, baroque and neoclassical art dominating the cityscape.  Religion-themed art works from Flanders and America have been imported, adding to the town's cultural appreciation, and it also has two theatres; the Teatro Chico and the recently restored Teatro Circo de Marte.

Economy

The town has a thriving economy courtesy of good trade routes with the other islands and mainland Spain, through the port of Cadiz.  Despite its relative isolation, the ease of exporting goods from the island has aided its situation to no end.  It is the only port city on La Palma, therefore employment is high in this industry in Santa Cruz de la Palma.

However, the limited space for surrounding the town has historically strangled agricultural expansion.  This has meant the population has not grown extensively - in 1900 there were 11,000 inhabitants, only 7000 less than today.

How to get there:

By Ferry:
The town is linked by ferry to many of the other islands. From Tenerife you can catch the ferry from Los Cristianos or Santa Cruz de Tenerife.  The port of Arrecife in Lanzarote and Las Palmas on Gran Canaria also have ferries to La Palma. Cadiz in mainland Spain also has ferries to La Palma. However, the journeys are long and arduous. A better bet is to catch a cheap flight with Islas Airways or Binter Canarias - the price will be similar if you get a good deal and you'll wipe 6 or more hours off the travel time.  However, be wary of the price on the websites – the price for non-residents is more expensive than the price for residents, so make sure you read the fine print.  The airport is located just south of the town.  Once in there, Santa Cruz de la Palma is small and easy to get around.  A highway encircles the entire city and it is easy to navigate.

By Bus/Car:
From the airport take the L8 bus from the terminal which will take you right into Santa Cruz de la Palma directly.  The journey takes about half an hour.
If you’re driving from the airport take the main highway north and you will arrive at the city in slightly less time.

 

Sights and Activities

Plaza Espana and Iglesia del Salvador

Lined with palm trees, Santa Cruz de la Palma is home to a few great sights and a pretty square in itself.  The town hall, Ayuntamiento, was built in 1559 following its predecessor's destruction by pirates and this council building is an imposing sight.  In the centre of the plaza stands Iglesia del Salvador, a beautiful Catholic church.  The name means The Church of the Divine Saviour, it is one of the most popular churches in the town.  Some of the balconies date back to the 16th century and there are intricate Islamic styled carvings on the exterior.

How to get there: Walk north along Calle O Daly.  Just past the Viajes Pamir travel agency on your left, it opens up into the plaza, also on your left.

Plaza San Sebastian and Emerita de San Sebastian

A few metres uphill from Plaza España is Plaza San Sebastian, a tiny but picturesque little plaza.  The name of the plaza is the same name of this area of the city.  It is home to a small chapel, Emerita de San Sebastian, which was built in the 16th century.

How to get there: Walk west up hill from Plaza España.

Plaza Santo Domingo and Iglesia Santo Domingo

At this plaza you will find the Iglesia Santo Domingo, which is home to an impressive and important collection of Flemish paintings. The Plaza is south west from Plaza Espana, on the corner of Calle Parraga and Calle Virgen de la Luz.

Castillo de Santa Catalina 

At the town's waterfront stands the impressive fortifications that were a result of the 16th century raid by the French pirates.  The 17th century-built Castillo de Santa Catalina was authorised by Charles V of Spain to fend off enemies, and it indeed withstood many attacks, and remains a focal point of the town today.

Address: Calle Castillete, 38700 Santa Cruz de la Palma

Santuario de la Virgen de las Nieves

Just outside of the town stands one of the area's most visited churches, and it's not surprising why - the view from this church, some 2km up a gentle incline, is amazing. The sanctuary is home to a beautiful gothic polychrome terracotta statue of the island's patron saint, the Virgin Mary.  According to tradition it put out a volcano with snow, and it is said that the Guanche worshipped the Madonna before the Spanish conquest.

The sanctuary was built in the 17th century on the remains of an old chapel.  There is a sacred museum (Museo Sacro) located in the interior of the sanctuary.

The walk to the sanctuary takes only about 45 minutes.  Inside the church there are incredibly ornate scuptures, and crystal chandelliers line the building.  Once a year the statue of the Virgin Mary is brought down to Santa Cruz de la Palma in a grand procession.

The church is accesible on foot by walking up from Plaza Alameda which changes into a dirt track nearer the church. Opening Hours: 8.30am-8pm daily.

See also:

An information site can be located just south of Plaza Espana, in the middle of two roundabouts.  There are also two bus stops here, a post office, Plaza Constiucion and the Emerita de Bustra Senora de la Luz.

 

Museums and Art Galleries

Museo Insular

Santa Cruz de la Palma's main museum, Museo Insular, has a unique range of artifacts including Guanche skulls, tools, embroidery and cermaics from pre-Hispanic times.  It also boasts an impressive collection of Flemish paintings, and has a natural science section dedicated to Canarian fish, shellfish, mammals, birds and reptiles.

Address: Plaza de San Francisco, 3, 38700, Santa Cruz de La Palma
Telephone: 922 420 558
Normal opening hours: Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 10am-2pm.  Closed on holidays.
Opening hours Jul-Sept: Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun closed.

Museo Naval

Housed in an enormous boat, this museum is known to locals as El Barco de la Virgen (The Virgin's Boat).  The boat itself is a replica of Christopher's Columbus' Santa Maria, and is home to the island's naval history.

Address:  Plaza de la Alameda, Santa Cruz de la Palma
Opening Times: 10am-2pm
Entrance Fee: 3.50 euros for adults, 2 euros for children under 16

 

Beaches

The beach at Santa Cruz de la Palma, like the rest of the island, are made up of volcanic black sand and pebbles.  Playa de Bajamar consists mostly of fine dark sand, and stretches for some 700 metres just south of Santa Cruz de la Palma.  The waves are moderate, so not as dangerous as some neighbouring beaches, and a very pretty seafront walk alongside it.  The semi-urbanised beach has cafes dotted along it and has a lifeguard service.

A few kilometres south of the city itself is Los Cancajos, a popular tourist destination and busy beach only 15 minutes out of Santa Cruz de la Palma.  See Los Cancajos for more details.

 

Festivals

Dia de Los Indianos

In February each year Santa Cruz de la Palma celebrates the Day of the Indians in a unique way - an epic talcum powder fight in the streets of the city.  Crowds of up to up to 60,000 people dominate the town and Calle O'Daly and Perez de Brito streets have the the most lively action in the town.  The tradition comes from the 1960's, when a wave of Canarians emigrated to Cuba to find work.  When the rich emigrants came home they wore white clothes and panama hats, which is emulated in today's celebrations.

Fiesta de Nuestra Señora de las Nieves

The Feast Day of our Lady of the Snows takes place annually on August 5 and is the main festival throughout La Palma.  The origins of the festival are in the 4th century when the Pope was Liberius.  A wealthy pious couple could not have children, and so asked the Virgin Mary for guidance on whom to bequeath their inheritance to.  The Blessed Virgin appeared to the man, and to the Pope, on the same night, and told them to build a basilica on the Esquiline Hill (one of the seven hills of Rome).  She said she would create a snow storm on the exact spot to build it, and the next day, August 5, the snow was there on the hill.  They soon built the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore.

The Bajada de la Virgen de las Nieves

The Virgin of the Snows descends on the city once every five years, with the next one being throughout July and August of 2020.

  

Restaurants

Bodegon El Sanavadit

A great choice for traditional Canarian cooking.  They also have a specialist dessert - the gofio icecream and quesillo dish, which is a hit with tourists and locals alike.

Address: Bo. Miranda, 80 (Cruce. Mirca, 80), 38700, Santa Cruz de la Palma
Telephone: 922 416 150

La Placeta

Housed in an old Canarian townhouse, La Placeta speciliases in fresh fish, rabbit and vegetarian dishes.  Their seafood is particularly delectable.

Address: Placeta De Borrero, 1, 38700, Santa Cruz de la Palma
Telephone: 922 415 273

Restaurante Chipi-Chipi

This restaurant is well known on La Palma, and for good reason.  The food is basic, meat, chicken and fish based dishes, but all are well prepared and tasty at a reasonable price.

Address: Calle Juan Mayor, 42, 38713, Santa Cruz de la Palma
Telephone: 922 411 024

 

Nightlife

Night time in Santa Cruz de la Palma is more a time for a few drinks in the nice bars dotted around the town rather than an all night rave.  The 24 hour partying is left to the island's other large town - Los Llanos de Adriane - but Santa Cruz de la Palma has a charm all of its own.

Along the water front stroll of Avenida Maritima, which is lined with cafes, you'll find a warm family atmosphere and plenty of places to have a tipple.  However if you're looking for as much energy as you can find in this low key town, Calle Alverez Abreu is the place to go.

 

Shopping

The main street in La Palma, Calle O'Daly, is home to shops, cafes and bars and bustles with an buzzing atmosphere during trading hours.  The street, named after an Irish trader who made Santa Cruz de la Palma his home, is also an architectural delight and a wander down it will fulfil all your shopping needs in Santa Cruz de la Palma.