Arrecife

Overview

Arrecife is the thriving capital of Lanzarote. It has evolved from a small fishing port into the home for about half of the island’s population. Known today as the commercial centre of the island, with tourism and agriculture being solid foundations for continued economic growth, Arrecife has managed to expand while staying true to its traditional Canarian roots.

This working town excretes a relaxed and unpretentious atmosphere in which to shop, eat and stay over. The pleasant promenade traces along the sandy beach of Playa del Reducto, excellent for a morning or evening stroll. The beach here is safe, clean and uncrowded, ideal for a dip and sun bathing. There are a couple of castles: Castillo de San Gabriel and Castillo de San José, the latter is slightly off town centre and houses the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo. The fascinating Charco de San Ginés is a salt-water lagoon located in the city centre, it is encircled by fishermen's houses and restaurants- an ideal starting point for the evening. Alternatively, ascent the Arrecife Gran Hotel for its Star's City Pub where you can sip cocktails (or coffee) while taking in the amazing panorama of the beach and the city below.

History

Arrecife originally means 'reef' in Spanish, and the city takes its name from the fact that the coast is covered in small reefs and islets which form an impressive sea front. The reefs were historically important as they were used as cover against pirate attacks, which were common in Arrecife until the late 18th century. Castillo de San Gabriel and Castillo de San José constructed to fence the attacks. Since then, the threat of sea raids has dwindled, allowing commerce to blossom, with the island's administration moving to Arrecife. Arrecife became the capital of Lanzarote in 1852, taking over from the former capital of Teguise. This and an increase in trade and agriculture has helped to change Arrecife from a tiny fishing port into what it presently is today.

Culture

Arrecife is a sublime blend of typical Spanish and Canarian culture; it is essentially a Spanish town, but with Canarian style housing. Many of Arrecife's culture and traditions are related to the sea, with the typical traditional Jolateros (colourfully painted miniature boats made of tin cans) often seen scattered on the Playa del Reducto beach. Since half of Lanzarote’s inhabitants live here, Arrecife gives a great insight into life on Lanzarote. The atmosphere in this working town is relaxed and unpretentious; the locals carry on with their daily chores, but certainly know how to have fun when the sun goes down. Cultural and art lovers should check out the Centro Insular de Cultura El Almacén and Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (Museum of International Contemporary Art, MIAC), where some of César Manrique's works can be admired.

Economy

Home to half of Lanzarote’s population, Arrecife is a true working town. It is the administration and commercial trade centre of the island and has a thriving port. Proximity to the airport and being a pleasant stop over town have also meant steady flow of income from tourism related activities for Arrecife.

How to get there

By Bus:
Arrecife is the hub for all buses on Lanzarote, so getting to and from there is easy, no matter where you are on the island.

From the airport, bus number 22 departs for Arrecife about 38 times daily between 07:00 and 22:40 on weekdays. Bus number 23 from Playa Honda picks up passengers at the airport en-route to Arrecife, 17 times daily between 07:10 and 21:10.

The number 01 bus to and from Costa Teguise runs 24 hours a day. Buses leave for Arrecife every 20 minutes between 07:00 and 21:20. After that, it runs hourly. The number 02 bus to and from Puerto del Carmen also runs in similar manner. Bus number 60 from Playa Blanca departs for Arrecife at 06:50, then hourly from 08:00 to 22:00.

By Car:
Hiring a car: The city of Arrecife is no more than thirty minutes away from the Aeropuerto de Lanzarote (Lanzarote's main airport) and it is easy to hire a car from the airport. Prices start at £80 a week for a four seater, and £110 a week for a vehicle for five.

Once you’ve hired your car, getting to Arrecife is fairly straightforward. From the airport, head east on the LZ-2 for 10 minutes to get to Arrecife.

From Puerto del Carmen, get on the LZ-504. At the roundabout, take the second exit onto the LZ-40, and after 7.8km, merge onto the LZ-2, which will take you to Arrecife.

From Costa Teguise, simply head southwest on the LZ-14 for about 11 minutes.

Sights

Despite being a working town, Arrecife is a pleasant place to explore with many of its attractions (except for Castillo de San José) within walking distance. It has a long white sandy beach and promenade for a relaxing swim or walk. Venturing eastward from the beach, the Charco de San Ginés lagoon encircled by whitewashed buildings, and the church of the same name are equally pleasing. If these aren't enough, there are two castles waiting to be explored.

Castillo de San José (castle)

Originally built between 1774 and 1779 on the orders of King Carlos III, this castle has evolved into a museum of contemporary art- Museo Internacional de Contemporáneo (MIAC). In the beginning, the Castillo de San José was built for military purposes; located on top of a cliff meant it was crucial in defending Arrecife from pirates and other attackers. It was also made to provide work for the island's inhabitants; a volcano eruption earlier in the century had resulted in the locals struggling to feed themselves as most of their land had been destroyed by the lava. This is why Castillo de San José is also known as the Fortaleza del Hambre, the Fortress of Hunger.

As the threat of invasion died down, the castle eventually ended up being a storage place. This neglect led to decay, and the castle was unused for more than a century until César Manrique has it restored in 1776 in order to accommodate the MIAC. Upon its re-opening, Castillo de San José was given a new purpose - home to some of the world's most beautiful pieces of art. The work of artists such as Botero, Domínguez, Millares, Rompo and Manrique himself now reside in the MIAC.
Note: this castle is slightly outside the town centre of Arrecife (about half an hour walk).

Address: Avenida Puerto de Naos, s/n, 35500 Arrecife, Lanzarote island. 
Telephone: +34 928 812 321 ‎
Opening hours: Daily 11:00 – 21:00

Castillo de San Gabriel (castle)

Built during the 16th century, Castillo de San Gabriel is Arrecife's second castle, and it played a pivotal part in the island’s long fight against invading pirates. The castle is located on the Islote de los Ingleses and can be reached by car and on foot; the latter involves walking over the Puente de las Bolas, also known as the 'Ball Bridge' because of the presence of two cannon balls on it. It was originally constructed in 1574, but evidently to be ineffectual against regular pirate attacks because of its wooden components. It was not until being rebuilt in 1592 that it proved resolute against attack.

Address: Islote de los Ingleses, 35500 Arrecife, Lanzarote island.
Opening hours: this castle is generally closed to the public but can be admired at all time from the outside.

Iglesia de San Ginés (church)

Dedicated to Saint Genesius of Alres (known as 'San Ginés' in Spain), Iglesia de San Ginés can be found by the Plaza de las Palmas square, with a market (Arrecife Mercado) situated close by. When looking upon the Iglesia de San Ginés, it is hard not to be overcome by the simple charm of the almost black volcanic stone structure set against whitewashed walls. There are three naves inside, one transept, and a dome on top. Inside there's a sculptures of San Ginés in Baroque and Mudejar style. Also there is the famous statue of Virgin del Rosario, brought in from Cuba. Each year during the end of August, the church is at the forefront of Fiesta de San Ginés celebration.

Address: Plaza de las Palmas, 35500 Arrecife, Lanzarote island.

Charco de San Ginés (salt-water lagoon)

A natural phenomenon, the Charco de San Ginés is known as 'El Charco' to the locals as it is a tidal lagoon right at the heart of Arrecife town. Legend has it that the hermit San Ginés used to live on the shore, hence the lagoon's name today. El Charco is a prime example of how César Manrique has influenced the island, as the lagoon has not become commercialised and has maintained its simple charm. Surrounding the lagoon is a gorgeous promenade, where palm trees and fisherman's boats and cottages make a scenic view before you. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants around.

Address: Avenida César Manrique, 35500 Arrecife, Lanzarote island.

Arrecife Gran Hotel

It's hard to miss; the gigantic skyscraper was built in the 1960's while César Manrique was away in New York and upon his return the building's future was hotly disputed, with some people trying to get it torn down before it was even finished. The building remained an unused eyesore in Arrecife until recently; its original purpose as a luxury hotel has finally been realised. Though labelled an eyesore on the skyline of Arrecife, the view from the top is magnificent especially at night.

Address: Avenida de Fred Olsen, 1, 35500 Arrecife, Lanzarote island.
Telephone: +34 928 800 000

Museums

When you visit the Castillo de San José castle, don't forget to spend some time at the contemporary art museum contained within it. Centro Insular El Cultura Almacén on the other hand plays original-version films, and host various exhibitions and cultural activities.

Museo Internacional de Arte Contemporáneo (MIAC)

Housed in the 18th century Castillo de San José castle, this contemporary art museum show cases pristine art creations from artists the like of César Manrique, Botero, Domínguez, Millares and Rompo.

Address: Avenida Puerto de Naos, s/n, 35500 Arrecife, Lanzarote island. 
Telephone: +34 928 812 321 ‎
Opening hours: Daily 11:00 – 21:00
Admission fee: Adults €2.50, children (7-12 years) €1.25

Centro Insular El Cultura Almacén

Acquired in 1973 by César Manrique and opened a year later after some modification, this former warehouse has been the cultural landmark of Lanzarote ever since. It is now the cultural and educational centre, and the headquarters of the Council Cultural Service. There are two exhibition halls featuring creations by the established as well as up-coming artists, cultural information section, and a movie theatre, and the Picasso Bar.

Address: Calle José Betancort, 33, 35500 Arrecife, Lanzarote island.
Telephone: +34 928 810 121
Opening hours: Monday - Friday 10:00 to 14:00 and 19:00 to 24:00

Beaches

The most popular beach in Arrecife is Playa del Reducto. There are also a couple of smaller beaches on the west side of Arrecife town if you wish to explore beyond town centre.

Playa del Reducto (beach)

Playa del Reducto is the biggest and most popular beach in Arrecife. Situated between Punta del Camillo and Arrecife Gran Hotel, it is nearly 500m long and with perfect fine sand and tranquil waters. Encircled by a pleasant promenade, cafes, restaurant, shops, and beach facilities, it is easy to see why the area is so popular. In keeping up with the European 'Blue Flag' award and recognition, the white sand beach is kept in pristine condition at all times.

Address: Along Avenida Fred Olsen, 35500 Arrecife, Lanzarote island.

Playa del Cable (beach)

Playa del Cable is about 3km drive west of Arrecife town centre. Similar in size to neighbouring Playa de la Concha and with sand as nice as Playa del Reducto, this beach is the less touristy option. Playa del Cable is ideal for surfing and there are also a few bars and restaurants.

Playa de la Concha (beach)

Half the size of Playa del Reducto, but with similar conditions and a shore that is just as attractive, Playa de la Concha beach is definitely worth a visit. It is about 4km west of Arrecife town centre. There are a few hotels along the promenade, but in general it is lacking the facilities that Playa del Reducto has.

Festivals

As the capital of Lanzarote and with half of the island's population living in Arrecife, there is no lack of fun-loving crowd when it comes to fiesta. Festivities here tend to be bigger, longer and louder.

Carnaval

Every year, thousands of people flock to Arrecife for Carnival. Drummers and musicians fill the streets, along with spectacular costume processions and energetic spectators (also in costumes) dancing through the day (and night). There are plenty of activities going on, such as a singing contest and the election of the Carnival Queen and Carnival Drag Queen. The date of the carnival changes every year, as the end coincides with the beginning of Lent, so it can be any time from late January to mid-March.

Fiesta de San Ginés

Every corner of Lanzarote celebrates this major festival in honouring San Ginés, the island patron saint. All eyes are on Arrecife however during this festivity, which generally last for two weeks from mid August, as its church bearing the same name and the surrounding areas (Charco de San Ginés and Playa del Reducto) host various events such as football tournaments, music and dance performances, workshops, and fireworks display.

Restaurants

Arrecife is home to an infinite range of cuisines. Everything from traditional Canarian to a wide range of international restaurants are locatable throughout the centre of the capital. For nice ambience and view, opt for the many restaurants and cafes encircling Charco de San Ginés; whilst a few especially good restaurants like Emmax Restaurante can be spotted slightly out of town centre.

Superguay

For a quick bite of hamburgers and bocadillos (sandwiches), Superguay is the place to be. Located not far off from the beach area, service here is quick and the food is delicious and good value for money. The shop looks a little run down but is always busy and full of locals, especially in the evenings.

Address: Calle Canalejas, 51, 35500 Arrecife, Lanzarote island.
Telephone: +34 928 807 627

Chef Nizar

This small but nicely decorated Lebanese restaurant is famed for its grill and lamb dishes. Prices here are on the high side but food are well prepared and of high quality. There are plenty of tasty starters to choose from, and to share with your family and friends. Local wines are also being served here. Do book in advance if you are planning to dine in the weekends.

Address: Calle Luis Morote, 19, 35500 Arrecife island.
Telephone: +34 928 801 260

Emmax Restaurante

If you would like to venture out of town centre, Emmax restaurant can be found 5 kilometres west of Arrecife by the sea promenade of Playa Honda. It serves Italian-Asian fusion delicacies with a selection of homemade pastas, meats, fish or vegetarian dishes on its frequently-changing menu. Emmax is also the place to be for coffee, tea and cakes. It has 12 flavours of tea to choose from.

Address: Avenida Playa Honda, 21, 35509 Playa Honda, Arrecife, Lanzarote island.
Telephone: +34 928 820 917
Opening hours: 10:00 to 23:00, kitchen opens from 13:00. Closed on Tuesdays.

Nightlife

Whether you are looking for a chill-out evening or a big night out of drinking and dancing, there are plenty of options in Arrecife. You are bound to stumble across some local bars as you head out for the night. Although not as appealing in terms of decor and setting, these local bars are good places to mingle with the locals, moreover, drinks are good value for money and generously poured. For a more scenic and fancy alternative to start off the night, head to the Star's city bar on top of Arrecife Gran Hotel for an amazing night view of the city, and cocktails!

Alternatively, two nearby resorts Costa Teguise and Puerto del Carmen are just a short car journey away. But do not drink and drive, there are 24- hour bus services between Arrecife and these resorts:

Bus number 01 Arrecife <-> Costa Teguise
Bus number 02 Arrecife <-> Puerto del Carmen

Costa Teguise

There aren't as many bars or clubs as there are in Puerto del Carmen, but Costa Teguise is still a great night out. The activity tends to be along the Avenida de las Islas Canarias, which can be found near the Toca shopping centre. Most of the bars will stay open until the early hours. There are 24-hour bus services between Costa Teguise and Arrecife, so don't drink and drive.

Puerto del Carmen

Fifteen minutes from the airport is Puerto del Carmen, which has plenty of clubs, restaurants, bars.

Situated along a serene, seemingly limitless stretch of beaches, there are two main areas to be explored in terms of nightlife in Puerto del Carmen. Firstly, Old Town is the place to go for a more traditional Spanish atmosphere. It is located in the northern part of Puerto del Carmen and there are plenty of restaurants and bars from which the stunning scenery can be seen.

New Town is what it says it is: the modern part of Puerto del Carmen. Being packed full of clubs, bars, and discotheques, it definitely caters for the wilder crowd.  With everything happening along the 'Avenida de las Playas', 'The Strip' is the place to be in Lanzarote if that big night out is what you crave. 'Centro Atlantic' is the heart of the nightlife in Puerto del Carmen, with offers and promotions that are guaranteed to make the night enjoyable. There are also the home comforts of plenty of international bars, with the British ones in particular being consistently good. Two highly recommended restaurants are Mamma Carla and Trattoria Verona both serving excellent food at reasonable prices. Puerto del Carmen isn't just for the hardcore party-goers however, with places providing fun entertainment and a friendly atmosphere for the family.

There are 24-hour bus services between Arrecife and Puerto del Carmen, therefore no reason to drink and drive.

Shopping

The main shopping area in Arrecife is along the Calle León y Castillo, known as 'Calle Real' to the locals. The atmosphere is similar to a busy high street, with shops catering to all needs. There are a few designer retailers around just in case your feel like splashing the cash. The great thing about Arrecife and Lanzarote in general is that the island and indeed all the Canary Islands have a duty free tax status: such luxuries as alcohol, perfume and tobacco are considerably cheaper than anywhere else in Europe. Two tips when buying duty free goods is to purchase them from supermarkets and local shops rather than from the airport; also goods tend to be more expensive in the touristy areas.

If Arrecife doesn't satisfy your shopping needs, there are a handful of centro comercials(shopping centres) available in the resort of Costa Teguise and Puerto del Carmen.