Tijarafe

Overview

This small yet picturesque municipality has some of the most beautiful scenery on the island. Its endless immense ravines, mysterious cave beaches and all the beautiful foliage and eroded correlations you’d expect from the west coast of La Palma. Due to the hidden water havens and natural wonders, Tijarafe is a holiday waiting for ramblers and any ‘water babies’ looking to explore the coast. The village itself is one of great religious beliefs- 2 churches built on through the donations from their poor citizens in the 16th century- and it is home to one of the biggest fiestas in the whole of La Palma. The Fiesta el Diablo is a frantic experience, featuring a dressed up devil bursting through the town square and setting off over 500 fireworks, the finale involves his head blowing up. This is a marvellous site for all present and a festival that is visited by thousands of locals, pilgrims and tourists every year.  The laid back culture and timeless scenery mean that, despite being small, Tijarafe packs a big punch when it comes to sights and exploration opportunities.

History

Tijarafe’s history is hard to trace.  With all original documents and archive of the municipalities early history lost in a fire in 1847. However, what we do understand of Tijarafe’s history makes it an important area in the shaping of La Palmas modern day culture.

The area itself is one of extreme religious importance, with most of the early production and architecture centred on the building of Churches. A small chapel which was built in 1530 was renovated in 1567 to become the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Cadelaria that is today and then another, La Capilla del Buen Jesús, was built in 1584. The extraordinary thing about the building of these religious buildings was that they were all funded through Tijarafero’s donations and wills. The citizens been perpetual with their masses, ever since the renovations and construction of these churches took place, the importance of the spiritual homes is still as apparent now as it was in the 16th century.

Between the 16th and 17th century, Tijarafe started putting foundations into place for becoming the modern society that we see today. This is ultimately down to the arrival of agricultural activity to the area, providing the main economic income not just to Tijarafe, but to the island itself. In the early days of production, this was reliant on rainfall, which is few and far between on the northwest side of La Palma. However, this problem was rectified in the 1960s, when underground water was able to feed the crops of the area, extracted from wells and horizontal shafts.

Due to the construction nous of the system, the area has become one of the best for banana plantations, avocados, soft fruits and almonds.

Culture

The people of Tijarafe, indicated through their history, are very religious. The agricultural sector of the area means that the citizens are very hard working, knowing that hard craft is the upmost way to earn money. However, the area is has some of the warmest temperatures in La Palma and therefore Tijaraferos aren’t very uptight. Inheriting a very relaxed attitude to life and people; thus making them extremely welcoming to tourists.

Economy

The area is one of mainly agricultural practises and therefore a lot of its income relies on the growth of plants. Many of these ideas were bought back by citizens of Tijarafe who successfully immigrated to America in the 17th century. Today, the main plantations are: avocados, soft fruits, bananas plantations and almond trees. The areas underground water system, extracted from wells and horizontal shafts means that an otherwise extremely inexorable ground is well watered and makes it a great spot for the stable production of vegetation.

How to get there

By Car: If you’re travelling for the airport, at 50Km, it will approximately take you 65 minutes. From the airport, head north and at the first roundabout, take the first exits, at the second, take the first. This will take you onto the LP1/LP2 ramp, from there follow the LP2/LP3 for around 30 minutes. This will eventually lead you onto the LP1, look out for the signposted ‘Camino de la Planta’, turn right when you have reached it and continue into the centre of Tijarafe.

If you’re travelling from the capital, Santa de La Palma, at 44km, it will approximately take you 55 minutes. You will need to head northeast on the Calle de Perez volcan, at the roundabout, take the 1st exit, then turn left onto the Calle o Daly. This will take you onto the LP2/LP3. From there, follow the directions given from the airport.

Sights

Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Candelaria

The people of Tijarafe are deeply religious and the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Cabelaira’s is s stark reminder of the spiritual beings Tijaraferos are. Between 1530 and 1567, the citizens of the area, renovated their small chapel into the magnificent building it is today and did it through their own finances. When you marvel at its black and white walls made entirely of wood, making the exterior architecture, simple and rustic while also holding a strange flamboyance, the donations and wills for the locals seem truly worth it.

Inside, there is an almighty altarpiece which was designed and beautifully hand crafted by the famous 17th century local Spanish sculptor Antonio de Orbaran, this altarpiece represents the 12 apostles and offers shelter and protection to the Flemish statue carved in tribute of the patron saint of Tijarafe- Our Lady Canderlaria. A magnificent oil painting wraps itself round one of the church walls; it focuses on the ‘mysteries of the rosary’, the traditional catholic prayer involving pray beads.

The multi coloured walls, supplemented by an entirely tiled roof, remind you of the hard working character of the religious Tijaraferos. The stone belfry situated at the top of this glorious spiritual fortress, chimes for hours at a time as indication for the perpetual masses that take place in the area.

Ermita del Buen Jesús

The Ermita del Buen Jesús chapel was built shortly after the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Cadelaria in 1584. Unlike its older brother, the Ermita Del Buen Jesús is much more stripped back. It’s simple and punitive design is a reminder of the economic hardships suffered by the area through the 16th century, relying heavily on limited rainfall for the growth of their crops, the town’s funds for the church were very limited. This makes the modest chapel an area of cultural intrigue into the early misfortunes of the area.

Inside, the church has a simple design, with benches for solemn prayer and two quietly beautiful statues in honour of the baby jesus and the patron saint of Tijarafe, Our Lady Canderlaria. In 1992, the roof suffered progressive damage and was declared an area of cultural interest in 1994, which provided the funds to renovate the church which plays such a big part in the local history.

Museums

Casa del Maestro

The Casa Del Maestro, formally the site of a primary school, now pays homage to the aspects of traditional life and practise in Tijarafe and the island of La Palma. Its 5 rooms are cased in historic artefacts that the forefathers of La Palma produced using their now out-dated, but honourable and impressive methods. There is also a historic timeline depicting Tijarafe’s biggest festival- the fiesta Del Diablo. Some of the crafts on show include ancient ceramics (dating from before the Spanish conquest in 1493) traditional handcrafted tools, which the elders of La Palma used to carry out the same agricultural work that is still going today, and woven baskets, used for practical tasks and for basic home ware that it would be associated with today.

All of the tools, ceramics, baskets and embroidered items all differ from one another, due to nature of the production, and are priceless items that have a real charm and the best indication of the skilled techniques employed by La Palma before advances in technology and mass production.

Address:  Calle 18 de Julio 11 (in front of the town hall) Tijarafe, La Palma
Telephone: (+34) 922 490 072
Opening Times: Mon-Fri- 08:00-15:00 (Summer- Mon-Fri- 08:00-14:00)

Activites

Diving/Boating

The coast of Tijacafe is a beautiful historic stretch, crafted by the continuous erosion of the indigenous rock mounds situated next to the sea line, it is challenging to actually reach but the rewards are capital. From its hidden caves to famous bays occupied by smugglers to crafted under water worlds. The peculiar coast line of Tijarafe is waiting to be explored, whether it by boat or deep sea diving, there will always be something that’ll keep your eyes fixed. 

Cueva Bonita

Hidden along Tijarafe’s stunning coastline is this glorious enchanting cave. The Cueva Bonita can only be reached by boat from Tazacorte. However, the limited access only adds to the mystery and wonder that surrounds this haven. Carefully crafted by the magma flows and erosion so typical to La Palma, this cave offers 2 entrances to the curious explorer looking for another way to explore the beach. Once inside you find yourself on a small beach, with indigenous rock shading you from the warm temperatures and crystal clear water reflecting the outstanding rock structures from above. However, the highlight of Cueva Bonita’s peculiar wonder is when rays of the sun burst into the cave through its entrance; a sight you will never forget. It can be explored by boat, or for the more adventurous, by deep sea diving.

Where:  (Boating) Cueva Bonita can only be accessed by boat, so to visit, you will have to contact a company that offer trips.

 

Hiking

The uneven rocky structures of the volcanic Tijacafe, as well as the rich pine, enchanting forestry and moonlike indigenous rocky surfaces, make it the perfect place to explore on foot. The area has a variety of different public foot paths to suits hikers of all fitness, making Tijacafe a popular spot for ramblers in La Palma.

Pico Palmero

At a whopping 2,321 meters above sea level, Pico Palmero is Tijarafe’s highest peak. It is a beautiful area, full of proud La Palma pine and striking foliage. The horizontal paths that make their way around the mound are typical of the area and mean that the hike is gentler than you would think.

The mound also has historical significance. It was formally the location that the citizens used to go in search of an answer to their miseries, carvings of their prayers can be found inscribed in the pine and rocks on this magnificent mound, giving its beauty a sombre quality.

Barranco del Jurado

Not so much a long hike, but still a magnificent area for a scenic stroll. Allegedly named after the remainders of an old rocky arch which the citizens crossed like a bridge, The Barranco De El Jurado is magnificent deep and rocky ravine which many people will experience making their way into the town centre. Its narrow walls have been carved through years of erosion; however, the ravine is still abundant in the many great endemic plants that are unique to La Palma.

 

Beaches

The coastline in Tijacafe is one of extreme beauty; however, unlike local beaches such as Tazacorte, the facilities to get down to the beach are limited. It doesn’t have a port and access is only gained either through boat or a very steep descent. Nonetheless, if you manage to make it, you not only get to enjoy a small, desolate pebbly beach, but the surrounding scenery. The sheer vastness of the whole thing makes you feel small and obsolete but gobsmacking all the same.

It is recommended to visit the Cueva Bonita, which is situated next to the small beach, for the unique experience if visiting a 4 metre beach situated in a cave. This will need to be accessed by boat but once you are there, you are reaping the rewards.

 

Festivals

Fiesta del Diablo (Festival of the Devil)

The Fiesta del Diablo is one of the most coveted festivals on the island, declared a cultural asset and as a celebration of tourist interest in, not just La Palma, but the Canary Islands also. Between August the 24th and September the 8th, various events are held for the Fiestas Patronales en Honor a la Virgen de Candelaria, translating into ‘festivities in honour of the Virgin of Candelaria’- the patron saint of Tijarafe. On the penultimate evening of the festivities, there is the Fiesta Del Diablo (the Festival of the Devil) where citizens celebrate the Candelaria and her protection over them from the devil.

The evening starts with a grand fiesta in the Candelaria square, where people wait for the dressed up devil to emerge. When he finally bursts into the fiesta, he is donned in a fire resistant black dress and a bottle of oxygen which launches more than 500 fireworks into the crowd and into the night sky.  The highlight for the citizens, and when the fiesta gets in to full swing, is when the devils head explodes and he is banished from the area. It offers a truly unforgettable evening and is one of the most famous festivals in the Canary Islands, enjoyed by pilgrims, locals and tourists.

Other festivals in Tijarafe include:

January, 1st: Festividad del Niño Jesús. In El Jesús
January, 5th: Auto de los Reyes Magos. Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Candelaria
February, 2nd: Festividad de la Candelaria. Saint Patron of Tijarafe
March, 19th: Fiesta en honor a San José. In El Jesús
In April: Easter. Different celebrations, such as Procesión del Encuentro and Domingo de Pascua de Resurrección. On Easter Saturday, el Aleluya
In May-August: Fiesta de la Santa Cruz. Each district has its own fiesta
In June: Octava del Corpus. El Morro 
In August: Fiesta del Porís en Honor a la Virgen del Carmen. Porís de Candelaria
December, Fiesta de La Inmaculada. In El Jesús

 

Restaurants

Due to the area being abundant in livestock and plantations, most of the food found on Tijarife is organic and all sourced locally. The traditional Canarian meal consists of various stews, brimming with fresh vegetables, and the island ofLa Palma, and Tijarife, is known for their delicious goats cheese and full bodied wines. The area’s cuisine is bursting with diverse flavours that most cultures would never think about combining.

La Muralla

The La Muralla is situated high up on one of Tijarafes many rocky mounds. Its modern design, features glass panes that surround the walls, means you not only get great cuisine but an enchanting view of the glorious Tijacafe coast. The menu offers up a wide range of traditional meat and fish dishes and a huge variety of vegetarian options. However, if you’re only looking for a bite to eat, the bar offers up Canarian tapas and a selection of drinks which include the exquisite local La Palma wine. You’re able to enjoy the views indoors or, if you want to soak up the La Palma sun, outside. With its friendly atmosphere and reasonably priced view, it is one of the most picturesque places to enjoy Canarian food and culture.

Address: Carretera Aguatavar 1  Tijarafe, 38780, La Palma
Telephone: (+34) 660 322 305
Opening times: Tuesday-Saturday- 13:00-22:00 (kitchen closed between 17:00 and 19:00)

 

Nightlife

Due to the laid back, small town that Tijarife is, there isn’t much in the way of nightlife; like most of La Palma. A good night out would consist of the sampling the local cuisine at one of the local restaurants and there you can sample some of the local wines or just enjoy a cold beer. However, if you’re looking for more than a few drinks, the capital, Santa Cruz da la Palma, has many late night music bars which offer up authentic Spanish music’ live and from the jukebox. It is approximately 55 minutes away by car.

 

Shopping

Tijarife is not really a shopping hot spot, it has grocery stores which will get you the basics. However, like the rest of La Palma, there isn’t anything to offer in the way of shopping centres and designer labels.

However, The island is awash with local markets that will provide you with local produce and second hand goods, and with a skilled eye, you can discover some real treasures. There are farmers markets pretty much daily and in every municipality in La Palma, offering up vegetables, fruit, meat, fish, culinary specialities and handicrafts. The flea markets in Los Llanos de Ariadne, Llano de Argual (opposite turn off to Tijarafe) is a place, that once you sieve through the tat, you can find some real hidden riches, this huge market is open every Sunday between 10:00-14:00.