Tazacorte

Overview

The quiet seaside town of Tazacorte is situated on the western coast of La Palma. The town runs along the coast from the mouth of the Barranco de Las Angustias ravine, to Las Hoyas. With a glorious 700 metre long beach, painted with black sand, and a population of a mere 6,600 residents,  Tazacorte is the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of city life.  The area is split into 2 regions. Tazacorte, the main area of the town, is awash with gorgeous flowers and an abundance of banana plantations also boasts a handful of shops, several supermarkets, banks, a post office and a town hall. Puerto Tazacorte on the other hand, is a striking lower coastal area which, along with the raven beach, has a fishing harbour and a promenade. It also has various cafes, rustic restaurants and bars to keep you entertained in the evening.

History

The area formerly belonged to Los Llanos de Aridane, which is a 10 minute walk away, but was given its independence in 1925.

The large beach at the port was the place chosen by the Spanish to begin the conquest of La Palma in 1492. The conquest was led by Alonso Fernández de Lugo who went on to build the island’s first church; the breath-taking San Miguel Arcángel. The name, relates to de Lugo’s dedication to Saint Michael Archangel, who is now the patron saint of the island. After being refurbished in 1992, it is now an even more striking spiritual monument.

The church is also home to the relics from one of the town’s most sad and historic folktales. In 1570, a group of Jesuit missionaries set sail from Lisbon to Brazil to spread faith. They stopped off in the port of Tazacorte, supposedly to collect sugar. The missionaries were invited to say mass in the San Miguel chapel. Allegedly, while doing mass, one of them had a revelation of the martyrdom that he and his crew were going to suffer; the emotional impact of the epiphany caused his teeth to break the silver chalice from which he was drinking. The chalice in question is still conserved in the chapel today. On July 13th of the same year they set sail for Santa Cruz de La Palma, but failing winds left them stranded off the coast for two days, and were confronted by five French Huguenot ships. The missionaries were tortured and brutally murdered; their corpses were thrown overboard into the sea. In their memory, 40 crosses now rest at the bottom of the ocean where the sad event of the martyrs of Tazacorte took place.

Culture

The people of Tazacorte, who refer to themselves as ‘bagañetes’, are liberal, open-minded and easy going. Due to the small population (it’s a third of the size of Los Llamos), there is a real sense of community and its residents are very welcoming.

Economy

The area of Tazacorte is often referred to as ‘Paris chiquito’ (little Paris) because of the socio economic boom enjoyed in recent years, thanks to a boost in the levels of agricultural production. Tazacorte is one of the chief banana growing districts in La Palma, something the island is renowned for. Banana plantations take up 85% of Tazacorte’s land area. With its claims of being the warmest region of La Palma, it has the perfect conditions for it. Tazacorte’s port is also a large contributor to the local economy, with plenty of fishermen plying their trade here. Choosing to fish at night, to avoid high waves and coarse seas, they bring culinary delights such as conger eels, parrot fish, dogfish, to name but a few.

How To Get There

By Bus:
The Transporte La Palma L2 circular bus will take you from Santa Cruz de la Palma to Tazacorte, which runs hourly at quarter past, between 06:15 and 19:15 or, if you’re coming from Los Llanos de Aridane, you can catch the Tansporte La Palma Bus L21 which runs every half an hour. Transporte La Palma Bus L2 also departs for Tazacorte every hour at quarter past between 06:15 and 21:15.

Transporte La Palma Bus L21 from Los Llanos de Aridane takes you to Puerto de Tazacorte every 15 minutes, between 06:15 and 23:45.

For more information consult http://www.transporteslapalma.com/transportes/index.htm

By Car:
If you’re travelling from the South (possibly Fuencaliente de La Palma) take the LP-1 and the LP-2 making sure you turn left when approaching Los Campitos, this should take around half an hour. However, if you’re travelling from the capital, Santa Cruz de La Palma, take the LP-2 and the LP-3; this should take about 45 minutes.

 

Sights

San Miguel Arcángel Church

This was, historically, the first Church built in La Palma; after Spain conquered the island in 1492. The conquest, led by Alonso Fernández de Lugo, constructed the church on the grounds where the first chapel was built. Its name derives from Saint Michael Archangel, who is represented in a military uniform, or the coat of arms, and grasping on a sword. In the New Testament is stated to be, “the heavenly leader in the fight against enemies of god”. Due to Alonso Fernández de Lugo’s dedication to Saint Michael Archangel, he has become the patron saint of the island and is also tought to protect, not only the church, but, Tazacorte and the whole of La Palma.

The church is home to the relics of one of the island’s saddest/ most legendary tales, in the form of the Jesuit martyrs, and also exhibits an interesting art collection.It was expanded and refurbished in 1992 and now houses an awe-inspiring abstract stained glass window. Beside the church you'll see an outstanding pergola lined with ceramic tiles and wild with bougainvillea flowers. This historic church is the social hub of Tazacorte, and has acted as a meeting place for the residents for many years.

Address: Parroquia de San Miguel, Plaza Spain, S/N, 38770, Tazacorte, La Palma Island
Telephone: (+34) 922 48 08 51
Admission: Free

Casa Massieu Van Dalle Monteverde y Ponte (Manor House)

Casa Massieu Van Dalle Monteverde y Ponte (The Massieu Van Dalle Monteverde y Ponte manor house)

Nicolás Massieu van Dalle and his wife Ángela de Monteverde y Ponte, married in 1666, had this jaw-dropping house built. This rectangular house has many highlights, but, undoubtedly its pièce de résistance, is its gate, carved entirely from wood. Other features of the house include, in the centre of the lintel, a beautiful family coat of arms, which is made entirely from marble including the arms of Massieu, Van Dalle, Monteverde and Ponte. It has recently been restored and is now owned by Hon. Cabildo Insular de la Palma and it is managed by the Town Hall of Tazacorte. Its main purpose nowadays is playing host to different cultural activities.

Los Lavaderos (The washbasins)

The washbasins in Tazacorte are dripping with historical significance. Every 15 days (known locally as dula), more than 50 women would meet at Los Lavaderos, swap secrets, put the world to rights and wash their dirty linen. Thousands of different stories will have been heard and told by the local women and this adds to the subtle beauty of this historic corner since being restored to its original state in 1997. The washing water came from a place called Dos Aguas (‘two waters’) and used to provide irrigation for the whole of Tazacorte. The water started off irrigating the banana plantations in the hills, then trickled down to Plaza de la Vica, the former location of the washbasins, the water was then canalised to make two mills, one bringing the water to the cane sugar factory, fuelling their production, and the other to downtown Tazacorte, where the locals washed their clothes. Due to the enormous amount of water supplied from two waters, when locals finished this ancient practise, the water was, and still is, used to irrigate the banana plantations on the coast.

Address: El Charco, 38700, Tazacorte, La Palma Island

 

Centro de Información Turística (tourist information centre)

For information of sights and activities that are available in Tazacorte, it is best to visit the tourist information centre. It is situated directly behind the San Miguel Church.

Address:  Isidro Guadalupe, 2 El Charco, 38700, Tazacorte, La Palma Island
Telephone: (+34) 922 48 01 51
Winter opening hours: Mondays to Fridays, 9:30 – 13; Saturdays, 15:30 - 19:30.
Summer opening hours: Mondays to Fridays, 10 – 13:30 / 16 – 18
Email: turismo@tazacorte.es

Activities

Walking

Due to the breath-taking scenery and the volcanic formation of La Palma, and all of the Canary Islands, Tazacorte is the perfect place for walkers. A stroll around the town is also arguably the best way to enjoy, and take in, its natural beauty.

If you want evidence of the vast production of bananas in Tazacorte, it is recommended that you take a stroll along the Camino Modesta – Mirador de las Bajas, even though it translates to ‘Mirador of Casualties’- do not let that put you off; it’s perfectly safe! The trail, beginning at the Lomo Blanco Street, takes you along a trail which on one side shows off the gleaming Pacific Ocean, which wraps itself round the coastline, and on the other, hundreds upon hundreds of green and glorious banana trees. The gravel path takes you into the neighbourhood of San Borondón, before reaching a crossing. Turn right here and visit  the Mirardor de la Low and the Paseo del Litoral for an experience of the rural and agricultural community in Tazacorte.

Where: Calle San Antonio, 38770, Tazacorte, La Palma Island

Another popular walk is the mirador de Time. Starting at the observation point The Mirador del Time (locally known as El Time), 500 metres above Tazacorte beach, you descend down to Puerto Tazacorte, and travel by boat along the coast. Here you can admire the black sand as you walk along the 700m Puerto Tazacortes beach. 

Boat excursion

Explore the beautiful western coastline coastline of La Palma on boat. The tours showcase the many interesting sights along the coast off Tazacorte and with little bit of luck you can spot dolphins and whales, which are the regular residents in the waters in La Palma. Click here to see available tours.

 

Museums

Museo del Plátano y Museo del Mojo (Banana Museum and Museum of Mojo)

Due to its importance in the areas economic and social history, with 40% of Tazacorte’s citizens working for it, it was only fair that the Canary banana got a museum in its honour. The Museo del Plátano reveals the importance of this plant in bringing money to the area. Built in 2004, the museum’s main aim is to educate visitors about the production of this fruit while also revealing other things such as dietary qualities and how it gets from the Canaries to the rest of the world, all done through visual aids and historic photos. The text is also in translated into English. The museum itself is nestled in the middle of a massive banana plantation, stretching all the way down to the coast. Seen from the top of the museum, this is an extraordinary view.

Next to the banana museum, is the Museum of Mojo, which showcases the ‘mojo’, a locally-made sauce and liquor products that are also of big significance to the island, and will be worth a visit when it opens.

Address: Camino de San Antonio, El Charco, Tazacorte, La Palma Island
Opening Times: Monday- Friday, 11 am – 1:30 pm
(Groups of visitors 10 am – 14:30 pm, but only by prior arrangement)
Telephone: (+34) 922 480151

 

Beaches

Playa Grande

This is the most popular beach in Puerto Tazacorte and probably the most visited on the island. It lies next to the port, and therefore boasts facilities which some of the more rural beaches do not, such as:  accommodation, refreshments stalls, restaurants and sunshades. The old palette inspired houses that run along the coast offer a view as near to a postcard you could get, and if you’re peckish, the promenade is has plenty of restaurants that serve up the many varieties of local fish. The beach is situated outside the boundaries of the sea wall and is divided from neighbouring beach Playa del Puerto by the mouth of the Las Angustias ravine. The beach is 500 metre long and 50 metres wide and due to its ideal wind conditions and warm water temperatures, it is an ideal spot for windsurfing.

Playa del Puerto

Divided from neighbour Playa Grande, Playa del Puerto also benefits from the facilities of the port and it is also equipped with wheelchair ramps, which provide access to the shoreline. It is very similar to its neighbour, and just as popular- visited by locals and tourists- it is just smaller in size.

Both of these beaches are just a short 10 minute walk from the town centre of Tazacorte and a 3 minute drive. They are situated directly by the port.

Playa de los Guirres (also known as El Volcàn or Playa Nueva)

If you want to avoid the crowds, or you’re a keen surfer, then Playa de los Guirres is a better option. In a more rural area, this is the favourite beach of the surfers. In winter it is sprinkled with pebbles and in summer it is glossed over with black sand. The beach doesn’t boast any facilities as such, except for the gigantic waves that a surfer would crave.

About 4km away, this is an 8 minute drive from the centre of Tazacorte, if you just follow the Carretera de la Costa. If you prefer to go by foot, there is a picturesque stroll down the Lugar San Isidro which will take about an hour.

 

Festivals

Festival of San Miguel Arcángel

Tazacorte’s Festival of San Miguel Arcángel is held in honour of the patron saint of the same name. The festival commences in mid of September with its biggest day, the Feast of the Holy, on the 29th of September. The evening prior to that, locals and tourists alike take to the streets for the “Baile de los Caballos Fufos” an extravagant dance through the town. The feast day itself is deeply spiritual, with a solemn mass held in San Miguel’s honour. The evening is topped off with a parade of sacred images and a spectacular fireworks display. The festival also stages other various recreational and cultural events. When the festival ends, in the first 4 days of October, it is usually aimed more towards the children of Tazacorte and they also have a traditional partner dance in the Plaza España.

 

The Feast of our Lady Carmen

The feast of our lady Carmen takes place around the second week of July, and ends on the day after the Day of Carmen, on July the 16th. Throughout the festival, there are numerous water related competitions such as fishing, swimming, sailing and ‘greasypole’. However, the main event of the festival takes place on the 16th. A maritime procession from the old breakwater Juan Graje to the new Puerto Refugio which is followed by the sacred mass at the Esplanade and a fireworks display, before the entry into the temple of the image of the Blessed Virgin. On the final day of the festival, there is a holy mass for the dead of the sea.

Where: Puerto Tazacorte

 

Restaurants

Due to Puerto Tazacorte’s ancient fishing business, many of the area’s restaurants specialise in local fish. But if you’re not a fan of seafood, the area has a wide variety of other delights to sample.

Restaurant Playa Monte

Situated just up the road from the Port, Playa Monte specialises in the exquisite local fish but also offers other Spanish and Canarian dishes. The variety makes this a very popular restaurant with fish lovers. Examples of what’s on offer include: squid, moray eels, conger eels; along with many other grilled/fried varieties of fish. If seafood is not your thing, Playa Monte also offers other culinary delights in the form of steak, tortillas, stewed pork and anchovies.

Address: Avda Taburiente, 19, 38770, Tazacorte La Palma
Opening times: 13:00-16:00 and 18:00 -23:00 (closed Wednesday and Thursday)
Telephone: +34 022 480 443

 

Restaurant Taberna del Puerto

The Taberna del Puerto is restored to give a rustic Canarian feel and offers up exclusively Canarian cuisine. and Sitting in the beautiful square by the Port of Puerto Tazacorte, it is the closest you can get to breathing in the authentic restaurant culture of Puerto Tazacorte. Some of the delights on offer include: Garlic prawns, Avocado stuffed with prawns, Galician octopus, and grilled mussels goat cheese. A unique feature of restaurant is there is a webcam located inside, updated every minute, providing you images of the beach in Tazacorte. Perfect if you can’t bear to drag yourself away.

Where: Plaza Castilla de Puerto Tazacorte, Promenade, 38779 Puerto Tazacorte, La Palma
Opening times: 12:00-22:00
Telephone: +34 922 406 118

 

Nightlife

Laid back, small town that Tazacorte is, there isn’t much in way of nightlife; like most of La Palma. A good night out would consist of the sampling the local cuisine at one of the local restaurants. However, if you still want to go for a drink, there are a couple of bars in Tazacorte.

Lomo Blanco Bar

This bar in the town centre is an authentic Spanish music bar. Listen to the flamenco-inspired acoustic guitars blast out of the jukebox or, if you’re lucky, you will be able to hear it first hand, with the Lomo Blanco offering live performances. This authentic Canarian bar is very friendly and very modestly priced.

Address: Calle Primero de Mayo, s/n, 38770 Tazacorte, La Palma Island
Telephone: (+34) 922 48 02 20

 

Shopping 

Tazacorte and Puerto Tazacorte are not renowned for great shopping.

The fishing trade does provide handcrafted shells and trinkets, fashioned by local women, which are available for sale of market stalls along the coast, giving the customer a piece of the area which they can take home.

The Los Llanos de Aridane Municipal Market is a mere ten minute drive away from the centre of town. Open till 14:00 every day except Sunday, there is something here for everyone.

Where: Plaza Mercado, Los Llanos de Aridane, La Palma Island.
Opening hours: 08:00-14:00 (Monday-Saturday)