Garafía

Overview

An archeologists’ paradise, Garafía is home to some of the most extraordinary Auaritas rock carvings in the entirety of the Canary Islands.  These carvings, which are more than 500 years old and date well before the European colonisation of the islands, mystify the curious tourists and delight all of who come to see them.

Largely rural, with around 1800 inhabitants, Garafía might seem like a place to bypass for the average tourist, but for those interested in the history of its original inhabitants it is a must-see attraction. 

For hiking and walking enthusiasts who visit La Palma this is the hidden treasure of the island.  The elevation ranges from sea level to 2545m in the small area that it covers, providing wildly different landscapes within its confines.  It is home to the highest point on the island, Roque de los Muchachos.

The area incorporates several small towns including the main centre, Santo Domingo, and also the villages of Las Tricias, El Castillo, Juan Adalid, Don Pedro, El Tablado, La Mata, San Antonio del Monte and Franceses.  It lies in the north and north west of the island and covers 103 sq/km. 

History 

This area is one where the native Auaritas have left their indelible mark, with incredible rock carvings which are easily the highlight of a visit to this area. These people inhabited the island prior to European colonisation, and named the island Benahoare.

Following the Spanish takeover, the Auaritas all but disappeared from the area, being sold in to slavery, killed, or assimilating into the new Spanish population. Garafía was constituted in municipality in 1812, and then in 1906 King Alfonso XIII conferred it the title of Villa.

The area has historically been plagued with communication difficulties and isolation and because of this Garafía remains sparsely populated even today, despite improvements being made.

Until the 1960's the area was cut off from most of civilisation, and the rest of La Palma, as it had only donkey paths snaking out of it to access the rest of the island.  Now, however, good asphalted roads have been built, making it possible for tourists to get in and locals to get out.  In some respects this isolation has done a favour for the area, preserving the authenticity of the area's country feel and making it a potential destination for rural tourism, hiking and walking.

The population peaked in the 1990's, reaching just over 2000, but is now falling as with many rural areas where small scale agriculture is in decline. 

Culture

The culture of this area is deeply rooted in agriculture as it has a long tradition of farming, cheese production and goat herding.  The nightlife is almost non-existent and the people here lead peaceful, quiet lives amongst the abundance of nature that has been provided for them.

Economy

The economy in Garafía is largely based on agriculture, particularly focussing on the cheese industry.  The area has a maturation and commercialisation centre for the large amount of cheeses it produces.  The area is made up mostly of farms, but small scale farming is in decline, and locals are making the most of the possibility of tourism in the area as it is host to some beautiful hikes and walks, as well as one of the island's most important archaeological sites, La Zarza, just out of Santo Domingo.

How to get there

The island of La Palma has a great bus network which covers the entire coastline.  Buses cost no more than 2 euros to get anywhere, including Garafía.  From Santa Cruz de la Palma or Los Llanos de Adriane, catch the L2 bus which stops at Franceses, Roque del Faro, LLano Negro and Santo Domingo.  Both buses leave every hour at quarter past the hour, except on weekends and bank holidays when it runs every 2 hours starting at 6.15am.  Buses do not stop at Roque de los Muchachos.

To get off the beaten track, a car is necessary.  

Sights 

Parque Cultural La Zarza, Santo Domingo

La Zarza is easily the biggest attraction in Garafia.  With its little wooden bridges and ancient rock carvings, its endless pine trees and vines hanging from overhead, you'll feel like you're in a movie set in the days of old.

The focus of the park is found in the Auaritas’ rock carvings, ancient markings left by the island's native people.  To reach the carvings you have to walk for about an hour through the woods, but it is clearly signposted from the visitor's centre and a beautiful walk into the ravine in which the park lies.  Once you reach La Zarza itself, you will find 29 carvings which have been painstakingly chipped into the rock around you.  They were only discovered in 1941, although they were created more than 500 years ago in pre-Hispanic times.  La Zarza is followed by La Zarzita, another cave featuring 18 of these unique designs.  The intricate engravings feature spirals, arcs and swirls in a unique pattern found nowhere else on earth.

There are many sites featuring these carvings around the island, but none as incredibly breathtaking as La Zarza and La Zarzita. 

Archeologists cannot agree on the meaning of the carvings, but always they are found near water and/or pasture.  Most of the explanations revolve around the asking of divine intervention regarding fertility for goat herders or water cults.

To find the park, follow the signposted road off the main road at the north of the island between La Mata and Llano Negro. In summer the park is open from 11am-7pm and in winter from 11am-5pm. 

Telephone: 922 695 005

El Roque de Los Muchachos

The highest point in Garafía, and La Palma, is El Roque de Los Muchachos (The Rock of the Boys).  On a clear day you can see the islands of Tenerife, La Gomera and El Hierro from this point.  The name itself refers to the rocky mound at which the island is at its highest point of 2425m.

El Roque de Los Muchachos overlooks the La Caldera de Taburiente and also gives an incredible view over the natural park below.  The Auaritas took their livestock up to this area not only to feed their animals but also to pay tribute to their gods.

The stony ground surrounding the area is covered by a thick coat of codesos and a number of indigenous plants such as the blue-flowered tajinaste and the violet.
Also, the most important astrophysical complex of the North hemisphere is located up here, La Palma’s observatory.

Roque de los Muchachos Astronomical Observatory

La Palma is home to one of the three most important astronomical observatories in the world and it is located in Garafía.  You’ll find it just near the Roque de los Muchachos at the top of the island.  It is home to the MAGIC and William Herschel telescopes.

The IAC who run the site offers daily guided tours through the observatory during the summer months, or you can visit the building any time of the year without going inside.  The MAGIC gamma ray telescope is not enclosed in a building so you can see it any time.  There is also a display panel here telling you how it works.

La Pared de Roberto

Near the highest point of Roque de los Muchachos stands the La Pared de Roberto, which carries with it a legend to explain how it came to be.  Seemingly inexplicable, this imposing wall is split in two with a V shape carved out of it.

The legend goes that two lovers used to meet at this point between Santa Cruz de la Palma and Garafía.  She was a beautiful aboriginal maid and he came from Barlovento.  The devil became jealous of the love that only a soul and body can create, and one night he created the wall to separate the youths.  But the young man tried to cross the wall to reach his lady and fell to his death into La Caldera da Taburiente.  The devil wanted to possess the young lady, but she jumped into the crater to be with her dead lover.  In his rage, the devil split the wall in half, as it stands today.  Until 1926 the wall was known as the Devil’s Wall.

Museums

Ethnographic Interpretation Centre

Santo Domingo’s cultural centre, La Casa de la Cultura de Santo Domingo, takes the visitor through from pre-Hispanic times till the present day with displays, photographs, panels and interactive features.  The stunning landscapes of Garafía, its flora and fauna and its traditions regarding farming and handicraft are all explained here.  It is open six days a week for visitors.

Beaches

Garafía is not known for its beaches, but there are two swimming spaces to consider if you are interested.

Santo Domingo Harbour Pool

Easily accessible, this saltwater pool is situated in the harbour at Garafía’s biggest town - Santa Domingo.  The pool is separated from the harbour by walls, but not so protected that it isn’t constantly refreshed with more seawater from beyond the barriers.

To reach the  pool you need to follow the signs towards the harbour and/or cemetery south of Santo Domingo.  The road turns into a dirt track and at the end is a carpark from which you can make the five minute walk to the pool. It has no facilities but is a good place to take a dip when the weather gets too much.

Fajana Beach

Below Franceses lies Fajana Beach, where the harbour once lived.  This small beach is a mixture of sand and pebbles.

To get to the beach you need to go from Franceses.  Coming from Garafía you take the first signposted road to Franceses where the main road turns sharply to the right.  After a a mile or two a signpost points to Fajana.

Festivals

San Antonio del Monte festival.

The biggest cattle fair and country market on La Palma is held at San Antonio del Monte in Garafía each June, in honour of St Anthony of Padua.  Visited by thousands each year, the festival involves livestock such as cattle, goats and donkeys, being blessed in a procession.  Aside from the formalities, it is a huge event with stalls selling toys, food and drink.  Music is everywhere during the festival and locals and guests alike dance the days away.  It is held during a weekend in June each year.

Restaurants

Restaurant Azul in El Castillo

Although only open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, this restaurant serves excellent European food.  Serving everything from duck in plum sauce to Cointreau crepes, Restaurant Azul is a great place to visit.  The menus are handwritten and the views from the restaurant spectacular.  Reservations are essential.

Address: Plaza de El Castillo 13, Garafía
Telephone: 922 40 06 60

El Bernegal

Italian food at its best, El Bernegal also serves great vegetarian cuisine.  It also has a list of Canarian specialties on its menu, and the restaurant has a beautiful décor.  The only drawback is that its only open for lunch, between 10.30am and 6pm.

Address: C/ Diaz Y Suarez, Santo Domingo, Garafía
Telephone: 922 40 04 80

Nightlife

As this area is largely rural, there is no real night life.  Rather, there is a scattering of cafes and bars about the place for a casual quiet drink in the evening.

Shopping

 The only real shopping available is local produce on sale from farmers.  The cluster of villages does not provide much in the way of shopping.