El Paso

Overview

El Paso is the largest municipality in La Palma, but with a mere population of 7,800, it remains a very rural area. The rocky mounds surrounding the area of El Paso provide an observatory for some of La Palma’s most beautiful scenery. It is located in the centre of La Palma, between the upper region of the Valle de Aridane and the Caldera de Taburiente crater. The area provides a beautiful indication and reminder of La Palma’s volcanic island status, with rare indigenous rock making up much of the 136m² surface that El Paso covers. The Caldera de Taburiente national park, located in El Paso, boasts the majority of these jaw dropping volcanic formations and borders onto the picturesque tributary valley. This forest is full of ancient Canarian pine as well as the endangered Canary Island juniper, unique to El Paso and the island of La Palma.

The area’s name ‘El Paso’, which translates as ‘The Passage’, derives from the central positioning of El Paso, which borders every municipality in La Palma, except for Tazacorte. It is also situated on the main road connecting Los Llanos de Aridane and Tazacorte with the capital, Santa Cruz de la Palma.

History

The locals refer to the area as ‘Paso del Capitán’ a nickname which goes back to a defining moment in the island’s history. Spanish conqueror Alonso Fernández de Lugo took the Ajerjo Pass, one of the many cross paths in the El Paso mountains, attempting to enter the Caldera de Taburiente.

Fernández de Lugo completed his conquest of La Palma on 3 May 1492 when he finally overcame the last stronghold of the native Benhaorita people, the kingdom of Aceró, of El Paso. Fernandez tricked the tribe’s King Tanausú Mencey, into meeting him for an interview. When the king arrived, he was arrested, which ended the Benhaorita ownership of La Palma and authority was handed over to the Spanish crown. It wasn’t until 1812, when the Spanish constitution drew up changes for the devolution of the Canary Islands, that El Paso was handed its independence and right to become a municipality of its own.

The Benhaorita were among some of the first settlers on La Palma. These aborigines settled on the upper district of Valle de Aridane; the highest point of the island; due to the importance of the vegetation for pasture grazing which the Valle de Aridane provided. The new colonists started moving to the lower regions of El Paso in the 16^th century due to an increase in population and the intention of using the rest of the area’s perfect dry farming conditions. The ploughing of the land’s many different stones took place in the early 19^th century and has formed the rustic look of downtown El Paso today.

Culture

The culture is awash with traditions and agricultural practise, and the locals have stuck to the traditional methods devised centuries ago. With the warm temperatures and the countless scenic delights, the community conveys a laid back but hard working image.

Economy

Most of the money generated in El Paso is from agricultural production. Due to its warm temperatures and expansive rural area, it has the perfect conditions for dry farming and pasture. Its main business asset was the growing of almonds; so much so in fact, that, El Paso inherited the nickname ‘The City of Almonds’. Today, almond is considered a marginal crop while the production of banana, tobacco and oranges contributes to the livelihood of El Paso. Hand crafted cigars are available throughout the area and the tobacco is considered to be among the best in the world. Livestock is also popular in El Paso; this is usually used as by families to supplement to their finances, or for consumption.

How To Get There

By Bus- The L1 bus from Santa Cruz de La Palma runs every half an hour from 6 am to 10pm and takes 35 minutes. Alternatively, the Transporte La Palma L81 will take you to El Paso from the airport; it runs 3 times a day at: 08:45, 13:45 and 21:45.

By Car- If you’re travelling from the airport, El Paso is about 33km away and a 40 minute drive, you take the LP-158, then at the first roundabout, take the 5^th exit. Then at the second roundabout, take the 1^st exit. Follow the L2 onto the L3 and you’re there. If you’re travelling from the capital, Santa Cruz de La Palma, the distance is 26km and it is likely to take you 30 minutes. Take the LP1 out of the city centre. Then take the first exit on the roundabout, then follow the L2 onto the L3.

Sights

Ermita de la Virgen de la Concepción de la Bonanza (chapel)

The Bejenado massif acts as a majestic observatory to the town of El Paso, while the Chapel of Nuestra Señora de Bonanza is a work of architectural wonder, with the geometric designs on the walls and a hand crafted belfry with 3 bells which ring out magnificently on Sundays. During the Sagrado Corazón de Jesús in June/ July, the Plaza which surrounds the chapel, is decorated with the colourful flowers; that you might find in the local gardens; increasing the old chapel’s quiet beauty.

Ermita de la Virgin del Pino (chapel)

The Ermita de la Virgin del Pino is about 5km away from the Chapel of Nuestra Señora de Bonanza in the upper part of El Paso. Situated by a beautiful rocky mound, Cumbre Nueva, it provides another remarkable observatory over El Paso. The church is relatively modern, opening in 1930, and is considered the protection grounds for the catholic symbol of the Virgin Mary; the Virgin del Pino. According to tradition, the virgin’s image appeared on the giant Canary Island pine that stands beside the Plaza de la Ermita. This pine among some of the fattest and oldest, not just in La Palma, but in the Canary Islands, and is estimated to be between 600 and 800 years old.

Roque de los Campanarios

Situated above the village of Jedey, the Roque de los Campanarios is the site of the worst volcano eruption in El Paso. The eruption of Tihua in 1585 caused a lot of damage to the fields and herds in El Paso and in La Palma, with searing magma spreading throughout the island. The mound itself is entirely comprised by python phonolite, a rare igneous volcanic rock, which gives this mound a unique moonlike atmosphere. The Canary Islands have this rare rock in abundance; however, you will not see many mounds that are completely encompassed by it, making Roque de los Campanarios a truly unique sight to the area.

Caldera de Taburiente visitors centre

The visitors centre for the immense and striking Caldera de Taburiente is sign posted and situated on the LP-2 road. It provides a variety of information on the national park: the different guides and maps it has offer information on the geology, flora and wildlife, as well as the history of the island and the park itself. All this is supported through the aid of audio-visual displays. If you’re looking for a momento of your time in El Paso or the Caldera de Taburiente, there is also an endearing souvenir shop, where you have to go to secure camping permits for the national park.

Where: El Paso Visitor Centre, Carretera General de Padrón, 47, 38750 El Paso, La Palma
Telephone: (+34) 922 49 72 77
Opening hours: Monday-Friday: 09:30–13:30/16:00–19:00, Saturdays: 10:00-13:00/16:00-19:00, Sunday/Bank Holidays-10:00-13:00
Cost: Free

Activities

Hiking

Roque de los Muchachos
This rocky mound, in English, translates into, “The Rock of the Boys”. Located in the upper region of the Valle de Aridane, the highest point on the island, Roque de los Muchachos provides a difficult, but ultimately rewarding, hike. It is a whopping 2,423 meters above sea water and it acts as an incredible observatory for the wonderful foliage and natural beauty that El Paso and La Palma has to offer. At its peak, you are also able, due to the altitude and gorgeous climate, to see the neighbouring islands of Tenerife, El Hierro and La Gomera. The location and visual quality of the area are so good in fact, that it the nearby observatory is home to the highest resolution telescopes in the world and the seeing statistics make it the second best observatory in the northern hemisphere.

Biking

Due to El Paso being a largely rural area with volcanoes and endless fields of green trees and pretty flowers, it is the perfect place to explore by bike. The Caldera de Taburiente national park has many picturesque trails which are just waiting to be explored by bike, and if you’re looking for a challenge, the diverse levels of ground on the volcanic island mean it is perfect for mountain biking, with endless ascents and descents to keep your legs pumping while getting spurred on by the paths paved in wild vegetation. Many companies also offer tours, if you want the knowledge of an experienced cyclist on the best routes.

Where: To go on a tour or hire a bike, you will need to travel to Los Llanos de Aridane, as there are no hire shops in El Paso. To travel to ‘Bike Fun’, it’ll take you 10 minutes by car from El Paso’s town centre - just take the Calle Paso de Abajo road, which leads you straight into the centre of town. Address: C/ Calvo Sotelo, 20, 38760 Los Llanos de Aridane, La Palma

Museums

Las Hilanderas (Silk Workshop)

Throughout the 16^th century and right through to the 18^th century, La Palma was one of the biggest manufacturers of silk in the world. However, as time wore on, the hand crafting techniques taught by the conquerors died out due to new technologies; except for in El Paso.

The El Paso silk museum aims to educate people on the traditional way of producing silk. On the guided tour you can watch the process from breeding of the silk worms, spinning and weaving of the mills and the finished silk products, and if you don’t catch it, there are guides illustrating the technique and giving further information on the history of this ancient practise.

Address: Calle Manuel Taño 4, 38750, El Paso, Isla de la Palma
Telephone: (+34) 922 485 631
Opening hours: Monday-Friday: 10:00-13:00, Tuesdays and Thursdays: 17:00-19:00
Cost: Free

Festivals

Festival of Virgen del Pino

Each municipality in La Palma have their own patron saint, which is believed to watch over the citizens and protect them. El Paso is no different, with the Virgen of El Pino being their idol.

The festival of the Virgen del Pino started in 1955 and takes place every 3 years in the last week of August; with the next one scheduled for 2012. The descent to the sacred effigy is a 6 mile walk, swarmed with a crowd of devotees and pilgrims who come from all over the island. The trail ends at the Church of Bonanza where the monument is held, under the shade of the huge Canarian pine- one of the biggest in La Palma. Afterwards, there is a vibrant party taking place throughout El Paso.

Restaurants

Restaurant Franchipani

One of the few restaurants in El Paso, which is also one of the best on the island. The Restaurant Franchipani provides reasonably priced food and a service that can’t be beaten. The food is made from organic, local ingredients and to the standard of a gourmet restaurant. Some of the delights include: Goat cheese wrapped in crispy filo pastry on lettuce with homemade mango chutney, beef tenderloin stuffed fine walnut cream wrapped in bacon of balsamic reduction and roasted vanilla peppers served with Serrano ham. All these culinary delights, and more, are packed with flavours that dance on your palette. They provide a variety of portion size to fit for the smallest to the largest appetites. The tapas prices range from 4-8 euros and the main courses range between 14-18 euros.

Address: Ctra. Gral. Empalme dos Pinos 57, 38750 El Paso, La Palma Island
Telephone: (+34) 922 402 305
Opening hours: Winter- 17:00-22:30, Summer- 18:00-22:30, Sundays open from 13:00. Closed on Wednesday and Thursday

If you’re looking for other restaurants close by, it is recommended you take a trip to Los Llanos de Aridane, or if you’re a seafood fan, Puerto Tazacorte, where you are able to sample the fresh seafood that La Palma coast has to offer.

Taberna del Puerto

The Taberna del Puerto, located a short drive away from El Paso, has been restored to give a rustic Canarian feel and offers up exclusively Canarian cuisine. Its location, in the beautiful square by the Port of Puerto Tazacorte, is the closest you can get to breathing in the authentic restaurant culture of Puerto Tazacorte. Some of the indulgences on offer include garlic prawns, avocado stuffed with prawns, galician octopus, and grilled mussels goat cheese. A unique feature of restaurant is there is a webcam located inside, updated every minute, and providing you images of the beach in Tazacorte.

Opening times: 12:00-22:00
Address: Plaza Castilla, Promenade, 38770, Tazacorte,
How to get there:  Take the LP2 out of El Paso. Take the 1st exit on the roundabout, carry on the LP2, then at the next roundabout take the 3^rd exit. Carry straight on and you will find the promenade on which the Taberna del Puerto is situated. A 9km journey, it should take 15 minutes by car. If you fancy a scenic stroll it will take you an hour.
Telephone: (+34) 922 406 118

Nightlife

With El Paso being a more rural and laid back holiday experience, there isn’t the same amount of nightlife you might expect with a package holiday. There are a few bars dotted around El Paso and the restaurants and cafes are always available for a quick pint. However, if you’re looking for something more than a ‘quiet drink’, the late night music bars in capital Santa Cruz de La Palma offer live Canarian music and a buzzing atmosphere in contrast with the laid back image that La Palma is known for.

Shopping

El Paso, and La Palma itself, are not renowned for shopping. However there are many markets scattered around the island which are worth a visit if you’re looking for local produce, second hand goods, leather and crafted delights from the gifted citizens of La Palma.

There are farmers markets pretty much daily and in every municipality in La Palma, offering up fresh local produce. The flea market in the Arugal district in Los Llanos de Aridane, Llano de Argual (opposite turn off to Tijarafe) is a place, that once you sieve through the tat, you can find some real hidden treasures and this huge market is open every Sunday between 10:00-14:00.