Artenara

Overview

Artenara is the topmost village of Gran Canaria. It is situated in the mountaintops at an altitude of 1,270 metres above sea level. This means that spectacular views of the surrounding landscape are on offer. Even the Roque Nublo, the symbol of the island, is perfectly visible from this vantage point.

This village, clinging to the mountainside, is not only one of the highest villages but one of the oldest too. Many of its houses are built into the solid rock of the mountainside, making use of the caves that were once dwellings of the aboriginal people of the island. Now, a lot of the houses have been painted, so that from the front they look like traditional house and the cool, stone interiors are equipped with all modern amenities.

The area is popular with tourists for its spectacular views and for its access to a number of great walking and hiking areas. The mountains are covered with nature reserves, such as the pine forest area of Pinar de Tamadaba. The green valleys and ravines are suitable for all types of walkers, from novice to advanced.

As you approach Artenara the winding road leads you through different communities of plants and flowers. At the beginning you are surrounded by sprawling lavender bushes and trim orange groves. The next stage leads you through the spiky pear cactus, eucalyptus trees and agaves until everything becomes yellow with broom flowers and finally, you reach the pine and oak trees, standing tall on the mountaintop.

The small village is steeped in history and culture, with some of the most important archaeological discoveries being found in the town. The culture is celebrated in the form of many fiestas that pay honour to patron saints and religious happenings.

History

Artenara was an important settlement for the native Guanches of the island. The area was considered an excellent spot due to its sheltered caves and fertile land. Even after the Castilian conquest of the 15th Century, these native people were still living in Artenara. This was mainly due to its secluded position, however, the Castilian families soon reached the town and the land was divided. The native people’s work of keeping livestock and growing cereals was taken up by the new comers to sustain the people of the area. The town’s population grew slowly due to most of the islands inhabitants working in the sugarcane industry. However, at the end of the 16th century this changed and there was a sharp increase in population.

In the early 17th century Antonio Gonzalez del Rio was appointed the first mayor for both Artenara and Acusa.  It was also in the 17th century that the town church was built, followed by a number of other chapels. This caused many of the agricultural population to settle around the places of worship and the town layout, as you will find today, started to form.

Culture

This town is rich in historic, traditional culture. The mountainside village is also deeply religious and a number of festivals throughout the year celebrate religious holidays and saints. The life of the aboriginal people also provides a wealthy source of culture as a number of their caves are still used for housing. Today, you can still visit funeral caves and a number of other important archaeological areas.

Economy

Artenara’s economy is historically agriculture, in particular potatoes, corn and fruit. This continues today and is accompanied by grazing livestock, such as sheep and goats.

Sights

Artenara is a treasure trove of ancient historical monuments. There are a number of well preserved caves and beautiful chapels built into the cliff face. It is not only the archaeological monuments that attract visitors but also the beautiful views that can be seen from the town.

Casas Cuevas

These ancient cave dwellings were once home to the ancient people of the island. Some of them have become homes to the current village people. They have built facades so that from the outside they look like traditional, Canarian houses. The advantage of the caves is that they keep cool in the summer and are warm in the winter months.

Santuario da la Virgen de la Cuevita and La Ermita de la Cuevita

This church is in one of the many mountain caves. Inside you will find the statue of the Virgen de la Cuevita. You might miss it if it wasn’t for the bell above the entrance.  The fiesta of Virgen de la Cuevita is celebrated on the 15th of August in the town. The chapel dates from the 18th century and lays 400 metres from the town centre. Everything inside, including the altar, pulpit, confession box and choir stalls, are all carved from stone.

El Complejo Arqueológio de Acusa

This is one of the most important archaeological areas in this ancient settlement. Domestic caves and funeral caves are where some of the most important discoveries of the aboriginal people have been found. Here you get a real feel for how life was in ancient times.

Cuevas de Caballero

This was, again, an area of an ancient dwelling. Shepherds watching livestock used to use these caves for shelter and inside ancient symbols can be found.

La Cueva de Los Candiles

These caves are found in La Montaña de Artenara. It is a particularly special cave as it has well preserved cave drawings and symbols.

Tamadaba Pine Forest

This is part of the Tamadaba nature reserve, which is the best preserved area in the whole island. The 8 square kilometers of forest area have a great variety of plants and beautiful scenery. There are several tracks leading through the forest for walkers of all ability. A number of specifically arranged walking holidays come through Artenara due to its beautiful vistas and historical monuments. However, you do not need to be part of a guided tour to follow the natural paths.

If you are traveling by car you can follow the signs from Artenara to Tamadaba. This road takes you through the forest and at the most western point of the road you come to a parking and picnic area. From here you can walk around to the rocks where the most spectacular views over the west coast are on offer over the ocean which crashes below.

Beaches

Artenara is set in the mountains so it doesn’t have direct access to the coast. However, to the west, the town borders a small, coastal area. Here you can find two small, black sand beaches. The beaches, Punta Gongora or Punta de Las Arenas, has large waves and is almost deserted. The secluded spot of Punta Gongora has lea to a few nudist sunbathers, however it is not requirement. The drive takes about fifty minutes and leads you through the mountains down to the coast.

Festivals

Artenara celebrates a number of fiestas for various events. People form neighbouring towns come here to enjoy fiestas in the spectacular surroundings. Some of the most popular include La Fiesta de San Matías, celebrated on the 24th of February and La Fiesta de San Isidro 15th May which involves a farmers procession and street musicians. Another is Corazón de Jesús, (Sacred Heat), which is celebrated in June by a moonlight procession through the streets.

The town also celebrates La Virgen de la Cuevita (our lady of the little cave) on the 15th August, La Fiesta del Cristo on the 14th September and the La Fiesta de la Candelaria, on the second Sunday October.

* These dates might change slightly each year

Restaurants

As a lot of the land is giving to animal grazing there is a fantastic choice of grilled meats. Try the suckling pig or the traditional watercress stew, ‘potaje de berros’. For desert, pumpkin pancakes are a favourite.

Nightlife

This is a rural mountain town and the delicious restaurants are the extent of the nightlife in the area, unless it is festival time when the streets come alive. For something a little livelier head to Gáldar, about an hour away.

Shopping

Craftwork is big in the town of Artenara. Visitors head for the workshops to find traditional, handmade pieces including ceramics and textiles. Local produce such as cheese and meat can also be bought in the town.