Ribeira Brava

Overview

The meaning behind Ribeira Brava's name is completely juxtaposed with its reality. Meaning 'wild river' or 'angry river' (various translations are given; they're all similarly themed though!), the stream of water through the region and town of Ribeira Brava is more like a leaking tap than a burst dam. Apart from in the winter and when it rains in the mountains, the river is a calm reflection of the life around it in this part of Madeira.

Whilst the town itself, located at the base of a gorge in the land, has become more popular with tourists over the years, the area itself remains very true to the local and traditional way of things. Banana plantations, vineyards nurturing various local species of grape and fruit trees dot the land, and the river ravine runs back to the west-central mountains of Madeira, flanked by vegetation and natural life which has flourished for centuries.

Fans of the outdoors come to the area to explore the various walking trails and enjoy a level of sunshine constantly high throughout the year, whilst the increasingly-vibrant town and its man-made black sand beach strike a nice balance between busy and quiet.

History

Ribeira Brava is one of the oldest settlements on the island of Madeira, dating back to the 15th century. The locals named it Ribeira Brava after the wild, onrushing river waters from its mountain source 327 metres skyward. Though that very water meant fertility in terms of fruit, vegetables and vines. Irrigation canals were also dug so the flow of water could branch off and reach farm holdings and smaller plots of land. The municipality of Ribeira Brava was established in 1914 and consists of the Parishes of Campanário, Ribeira Brava, Serra d’Água and Tabua.

Culture

The culture in Ribeira Brava is one still largely uninfluenced by tourism to Madeira, and remains a close relationship between the people and the natural world. In Ribeira Brava town, a selection of restaurants with terraces represents the outdoor way of life and leisurely mealtimes indicative of the constantly warm region.

Economy

Aside from a number of small, local businesses located in Ribeira Brava town centre, the primary economic outlets of the region are agriculture, fishing and production of Madeira wine.

How to get there

By car: simply take the ER-101 road west towards Ribeira Brava from Funchal until you start seeing signs.

By bus: Rodoeste bus service runs two lines that stop in Ribeira Brava. Bus number 7 from Funchal goes direct to Ribeira Brava and leaves regularly throughout the day. This takes about 30 minutes.

The number 142 runs from Funchal to Ponta do Pargo along the entire south coast and leaves 5 times a day between 8.00am and 17.30. It takes about 1 hour and 35m minutes.

 

Sights

Ribeira Brava Promenade

The stretch of land along the Atlantic coast in Ribeira Brava is a great place for an afternoon stroll, or to relax in a cafe or do some shopping. You can also jump off onto the beach or down the jetty for a swim.

Igreja Matriz de São Bento (São Bento Church)

The 15th century church has been added to and restored over the years but none of that takes away from the original beauty, characterised by many styles including Flemish and gothic. Flemish artistry is present in various panels on the inside, as well as the symbolic image of ‘Our Lady of the Rosary’. Meanwhile three Gothic archivolts run on the ceiling arcs. There are also a small collection of old artefacts - a testament to the church’s pedigree as one of the most important religious places in the region.

Address: Corner of Rua Comachos & Rua do Visconde, 9350-213 Ribeira Brava, Madeira island.
The church is easily spotted on your left when coming into the town via ER104 towards the coast.

Forte da Ribeira Brava (Fort of Ribeira Brava) - now a tourist information centre

This small round turret-like building served as part of an old fort which was used to defend Riberia Brava from attacks. These days the 18th century relic is a tourist information office.

Address: 9350-213 Ribeira Brava, Madeira island.
Opening hours: Monday to Friday 10:00- 15:30, Saturday 10:00- 12:30.

Câmara Municipal da Ribeira Brava (Town Hall)

This isn't a standard looking council building. Light pink and set back down a drive in a garden surrounded by jacaranda trees, it looks like it could belong to Willy Wonka. In fact, built in 1765, it was actually once the home of a wealthy sugar merchant.

Address: Rua Visconde Ribeira Brava 56, Vila, 9350-213 Ribeira Brava, Madeira island.

Farol (Lighthouse)

Just west of the port in Ribeira Brava is a rather unusual lighthouse sitting atop of a rocky cliff. Just 6 feet in height, this square red and white lighthouse was thought to be built in the 1920s.

Caís da Ribeira Brava (Pier)

Built between 1904 and 1908, the pier was formerly used as a dropping off point for crates, barrels and other goods. These days it's more for dropping off people from boat trips. On Ribeira Brava's coast you can take advantage of the different boat trips that leave the pier, or simply take a stroll to the end. It's also a prime car parking space!

Miradouro de São Sebastião (View point)

Located just outside of Ribeira Brava town, you can get a sparkling panoramic of Ribeira Brava village as well as the coastline. 

Address: Campanário, Ribeira Brava, Madeira island.

Fajã dos Padres

This stunning area is tucked away under a cliff on the south coast of Ribeira Brava. Not just any old coast either: the area - Fajã means a flat, arable piece of land which sticks out by the way - sits in the shadow of Cabo Girão, the second highest cliff in the world. The secluded spot has been inhabited since the earliest days of settlement on the island who have cultivated avocado, banana, guava and papayas amongst other things.

Fajã dos Padres was once inhabited by the 'Padres' or priests of the Society of Jesus; these days a huge 250 metre glass elevator can take visitors down to the land below, where once it was only accessible by sea. Aside from wonderful views, there's a pebble beach with excellent swimming conditions, guesthouses for short stays, and even a restaurant. The area also has a rich history of Mavalsia wine production.

You can get to the coastline and the lift by turning off the main road (ER-101) on exit 3.

Access by panoramic lift:
Address: Estrada Padre António Dinis Henriques, 1, 9300-261, Quinta Grande, Madeira.
Telephone: +351 291 944 538
Opening hours: Summer - every day except Tuesday: 11:00-19:00 Rest of the year - every day except Tuesday 11:00-18:00
Closed from January 10th - March 1st
Price (round-trip): around €9

Access by boat:
A regular sea taxi service connects the Ribeira Brava village port and Fajã de Padres. See www.madeiraseataxi.com for all the details.

Paúl da Serra plateau

From the air this could be the American Midwest; a single road stretching across untouched terrain. In reality, on Madeira's largest land plateau - 1500 metres high and 24km² in area - you are in the company of views, forests and the start of many potential hiking trails. This plateau is environmentally vital as it collects rain water and feeds the irrigation channels (levadas). It also offers a view of water: a sea view on both sides will reward you for choosing a clear day to drive over it. Needless to say Paúl da Serra is much more accessible if you have your own vehicle.

To get there: From Ribeira Brava - the easiest way is to leave the town on the ER-222 road towards Serrado E Cova. This road is scenic but is also a little steep in places with some awkward turns, so leave plenty of time for the drive. At Serrado E Cova turn off onto the ER-209. And here you're on the plateau.

Technically speaking the plateau is found in the Ponta da Sol municipality but is easy enough to get to from Ribeira Brava.

 

Activities

Hiking

Across the landscape of Ribeira Brava you can pick up one of the numerous walking routes which span across all levels of difficulty. Some of them involve following 'levadas', Madeira's irrigation channels, which should also give you a helping hand with the directions as if walking through a labyrinth laying a thread to find your way back. Only these won't be dark and scary; instead, luscious, green and light.

Levada do Norte do Cabo Girão to "Boa Morte"

This trail begins at Cabo Girão, where the levada de norte touches the regional road. Despite the translation of the destination Boa Morte as 'good death' (actually a 'Sítio' or small site on the outskirts of Ribeira Brava), you can be assured that your countryside hike won't leave you needing to climb wearily and happily into a grave at the end of it. You'll be treated to views of farmland and coastline as well as twists and turns in the irrigation channel which display varieties of wild plants. This isn't so challenging, but there is a tricky descent towards the end.

Start point: between Cabo Girão and Garachico where the levada de norte and regional road meet
End point: site Boa Morte, Ribeira Brava village
Distance: 11.3km
Time: 3-4 hours (one-way)
Difficulty: fairly easy apart from the last descent to Boa Morte and Ribeira Brava

Lugar da Serra e Espigão

Starting out at Cabo Girão, this longer and steeper trek will be more challenging but you will see many sights along the way including Jardim da Serra (Sierra Garden) and the Trompica Forest; you'll also get a view of Funchal in the distance. Walk through forest, along tracks and smell the eucalyptus as you make your way up and then town again towards Ribeira Brava.

Start point: Cabo Girão
End point: Ribeira Brava village
Distance: 15km
Duration: 8 hours
Difficulty: Medium; long, and steep at the end.

Levada da Serra de Água ao Curral das Freiras

There are two possibilities for this trail, both starting at Igreja da Serra de Água (the church) by the levada. One leg is longer at 14km and finished up further east at the Igreja da Curral das Freiras (Church of the Nuns' Valley) in Curral das Freiras; a second is 8km and goes to the Belvedere Encumeada viewpoint where you can have a rest and take in the sight of some of the landscape you've just walked. You'll pass by a startling array of plant and tree life including holly, laurel, mahogany, laurel, eucalyptus, ferns as well as grazing cattle.

Start point: Igreja da Serra de Água, Serra de Água, just off ER-104 road
End point: either the Igreja da Curral das Freiras (Church of the Nuns' Valley) in Curral das Freiras or the Belvedere Encumeada viewpoint
Distance: 14km or 8km
Duration: 5-6 hours or 3-4 hours
Difficulty: medium; there are some damaged paths that can be quite slippery in places

 

Museums

Museo Etnográfico da Madeira (Madeira Ethnographic Museum)

Set in Ribeira Brava's old spirit mill, this museum presents everything to do with the documentation, preservation and research carried out on the traditional culture of both Madeira and the archipelago islands. Containing articles and exhibits on social, cultural and economic there are not only exhibitions but also plenty of fun activities for the family.

Address: Rua de São Francisco 24, 9350-211 Ribeira Brava, Madeira island.
Telephone: +351 291 952 598
Opening hours: Tuesdays- Fridays 09:30-17:00; Saturdays & Sundays 10:00- 12:30, 13:30- 17:30. Closed on Mondays and holidays.

 

Beaches

Ribeira Brava beach

A very popular, well-located beach on the coast of Ribeira Brava village. It was actually man-made in 2004, complete with snake-like stone jetty which cordons off a safe swimming area and breaks the oncoming waves. There's typically a lifeguard on hand anyway. The beach runs parallel to the promenade which houses shops, bars and cafes and has volleyball, football and canoeing facilities. Permanent palm umbrellas offer shade for sunbathers.

 

Festivals

Festas de São Pedro (Feast of Saint Peter)

Buoyant, colourful celebrations begin in the day and continue through the night for Saint Peter - a popular regional saint and, importantly for people who have historical relied on the sea, protector of the fishermen. Flowers, traditional dancing, live music, food and drink stalls as well as many other activities and forms of entertainment fill the streets of Ribeira Brava. And, as if in a show of Saint Peter's strength of power and care, a procession of boats float in the sea. A midnight firework display is a must see.

Visitors are much more than welcome for this local two-day party.

Date: 28th - 29th June

 

Restaurants

Casa dos Grelhadas

What better way than to cap a summer's evening than with the gentle waft of barbequing meat and fish on an outdoor terrace. Casa dos Grelhadas, as per the name, specialise in grilled meat. Frango no espeto (chicken kebab) and alheira da caça (game sausage) are amongst the favourites. Average main courses start at around €7.

Address: Largo dos Herédias, Ribeira Brava, Madeira island.
Telephone:+351 918 096 654
Opening hours: Tuesdays- Saturdays 11:00- 15:00 and 19:00- 23:00. Sundays 11:00- 15:00.

Dom Luís

Another restaurant which offers that winning combination of meat, fish and a seaside view. Beef, chicken and tuna are just some of the meats which sizzle over the open fire. Full meals from €15- €20

Address: Rua Gago Coutinho e Sacadura Cabral, 9350-217 Ribeira Brava, Madeira island.
Telephone: +351 291 952 543
Opening hours: every day 08:30- midnight

Fajã dos Padres

The restaurant in this unique location is a history lesson in the produce which has been grown and caught here over the centuries. Like a proper market, the fresh fish options are usually dictated by what comes up in the fishermen's nets that morning. Tuna and grilled limpets are usually always on the menu though, as are a variety of interesting desserts and side dishes including regional fruit and vegetables. And of course your hosts will be more than willing to pour you a glass of local Malvasia Candida for an aperitif, or with your main course.

Address: Estrada Padre António Dinis Henriques 1, 9300-261 Quinta Grande, Câmara de Lobos
Telephone: 291 944 538
Opening hours: 12-17 every day except Tuesday. Closed 10th January - 1st March

 

Nightlife

As you might expect for such a region, the nightlife scene isn't so happening. There are some bars and restaurants in the town though in which you can enjoy a relaxing meal or drink

 

Shopping

You can see both sides of the coin in Ribeira Brava: the token mugs, t-shirts and postcards but also wooden sculptures, wickerwork, embroidered tablecloths and drinks mats as well as glassware.

Mercado Municipal (Municipal market)

Here you can find a treasure trove of produce from the region including meat, fish, fruit, vegetables as well as arts and crafts. Remember to take cash.

Address: Rua Gago Coutinho e Sacadura Cabral, 9350, Ribeira Brava, Madeira island.
Date and time: 1st and 3rd Thursdays of the month; 09:30-14:00