Porto Moniz

                      

Overview:

Away from the tourist hub of Funchal on Madeira's northwest shoreline you will find Porto Moniz, a place where the thrill of outdoor life sits alongside the historical necessity of farming the land for produce.

Amongst the tropical fruit and vegetable plantations lie vineyards, fields, native plants, and farm life. The charismatic volcanic rock shoreline which has been sculpted by the ocean over time is also prominent, with the natural bathing pools being the most notable ones.

The surrounding municipality of the same name encompasses over 8,000 hectares of land and includes four local parishes. Connecting roads and tracks offer not only hiking possibilities but also scenic drives including along the north coast from Santana to Porto Moniz and the road out of Porto Moniz towards Paúl da Serra - a 1,600 barren plateau reminiscent of the Scottish highlands.

There is another side to Porto Moniz's connection with nature though, evident in the Aquarium and Living Science Centre in town.

History of Porto Moniz

The village of Porto Moniz dates back to some point in the late 15th century, making it almost as old as Madeira's capital Funchal. Known originally as Ponta do Tristão the village was a distant Portuguese settlement with few citizens, and the land at first largely uncultivated.

Then came Francisco Moniz O Velho,  a wealthy nobleman from Portugal's Algarve region. Moniz funded, amongst other things, the Nossa Senhora da Conceição chapel which was the place of worship for the first fishing and farming inhabitants. It arguably helped solidify productive agricultural life on the island.

Moniz later married Filipa da Câmara, a descendant of João Gonçalves Zarco, the man who first discovered Madeira. At this point historical records largely suggest that some time after Moniz's death, the settlement was named Porto do Moniz. Another school of thought dictates however that Zarco's second wife Isabelle Moniz might lay claim to the new Parish's name. Yet another argument is that the daughter of the governor of nearby island Porto Santo, Filipa Moniz Perestrello, who married Christopher Columbus, must have had a mother with the maiden name Moniz.

All in all, there were clearly a few people with Moniz somewhere in their name kicking around the region in the 16th Century.

Two immediate problems the new inhabitants faced were transport and attack from the open ocean. Steep, craggy land with ravines meant walking was perilous whilst with no ability to reinforce the coastline, attack from pirates was a likelihood. Indeed when sea travellers did attack, the villagers had to take their possessions and hide in the forested higher land.

After many surprise attacks had caused increasing hardship for the people and village Porto Moniz, the São João Baptista fort was constructed in the 1730s as a means of defense.

Naturally with veritable opposition to attacks and an early warning system in place should they have happened, village life began to flourish. By 1836, 7,000 people were earning a living in the region.

Porto Moniz was unified with the rest of the island shortly after the end of World War II when a road between the region and São Vicente (now the ER-101) was dug.

Subsequently, over time, more paths were forged in the volcanic rock connecting the various villages, the farming industry took off and the Madeira grapevine was cultivated.

Economy and Culture of Porto Moniz

The primary economic activity in Porto Moniz village and the region centres around tourism, agriculture, fishing and the wine business. Countryside cottages pepper the region, and the village itself has a booming hotel trade especially on the waterfront promenade; the area is the second most visited after in and around Funchal.

Seafood is still a major outlet for the local fisherman and the local restaurants. There are a surprising number of restaurants in the area with most specialising in fish and crustaceans.

In the hamlet of Seixal however, it's not fishing but the production of dry Madeiran wines from the local Seiçal grape. The fertile Seixal valley yields mangoes, avocados, figs and sugar applies.

The culture of the region has always been one of traditional farming and fishing, with a heavy dependence on the land and all its produce. The world famous Madeira wine is intrinsically linked with the culture on the island.

How to get to Porto Moniz

By car:
From Funchal, take the ER-101 west towards Ribeira Brava, continue past Ribeira Brava through the tunnel and join the ER-104 towards São Vicente on the north coast. You will pass through another tunnel - the Encumeada - around here. Rejoin the ER-101 towards Seixal and Porto Moniz, about 16km. The total journey is about 48km and should take 1 hour.

If you're a bit more of a thrill-seeker, and would like to take in the scenery, then follow the old coastal road in the same direction from São Vicente to Porto Moniz. This road took a painstaking 16 years to make, most of it by hand, hacking away into the rock. It's 19km long and is only one-way: east to west. There are other benefits: several waterfalls along the way can provide you with a free car wash...or shower!

By bus:
Rodoeste buses serve the west of the island; however, they are not intended for tourists so you need to be prepared. Route 80 winds around the west coast from Funchal via Calheta, stopping in most villages and taking about 3 hours to reach Porto Moniz.

Bus 139 goes north from Ribeira Brava to São Vicente and then along the coast. Asking the driver if the bus goes to São Vicente is a good idea because some of them turn off in the middle of the island. From São Vicente the 139 goes along the north coast to Porto Moniz. The journey from Ribeira Brava to Porto Moniz takes about 1.5 hours

Sights:

Porto Moniz old town

If you stay in a hotel or wander the old town you will noticed a stark contrast with the waterside development: less touristy, less well-trodden and more in keeping with its traditional roots. There are some facilities and shops but not a huge deal. Two churches adorn the municipality of Porto Moniz. The Iglesia Matriz dates from the 17th Century and impresses with its high baroque style. Santa Maria Madalena do Mar was built in 1471. It is thus one of the oldest churches of Madeira. Should you have your own car then take a drive upwards out of the town for mesmerising views along a road at the top.

Museums:

Living Science Centre of Porto Moniz

In addition to the aquarium, close by is the modern Living Science Museum (Centro de Ciência Viva). Whether you've got a passion for science or a complete novice you'll find something for you here. With interactive displays, information boards, exhibitions and a cyber-cafe, families and visitors of all ages and dispositions can get plugged into a world of natural sciences. This was not built for tourists though: only some of it is in the English language.

Address: just off the Rotunda do Ilhéu Mole, 9270-095, Porto Moniz, Madeira island.
Telephone: (+351) 291 850 300
Opening times: Tuesdays- Sundays 10:00- 19:00
Entrance: €5 adults; €3.50 senior over 65, €2.50 children over 5; free for children under 5.

Activites:

Teleférico Achadas da Cruz (cable car)

How's your handling of heights? A solution to the problem of connecting the village of Achadas da Cruz, at 575 metres above sea level, to the fertile farmland on the coast below was found in 2004 with the opening of the cable car. Cast your eye of incredible views of the land below the cliff, though if you're easily frightened then watch out - the cable car wire is very thin. Also, be respectful: it's primarily for villagers and farmers to ship produce between houses and fields. Alternatively you can walk the 4.5 kilometres to the bottom and get a ride back up.

Where: Achadas de Cruz, off EN-101 road between Porto Moniz and Ponto do Pargo
Opening times:

Winter: Monday - Friday  08:00 to 09:00 and 11:00 to 18:00; Saturday, Sunday and holidays 07:30 - 08:00 & 11:00 to 18:00.

Summer: Monday - Friday  08:00 to 09:00 and 13:00 to 20:00; Saturday, Sunday and holidays 07:30 - 08:00 & 13:00 to 20:00.

Price: from €3 return

Piscinas Naturais Porto Moniz (Natural sea pools)

On the coast of the town you can witness the intricate sculpting ability of the ocean at the naturally formed sea pools. Here, lava rock is dotted between a system of waterways and small pools with concrete bases - making them ideal for summertime bathing. There are two sets of pools along the coast separated by a 500 metre promenade complete with bars and cafes. Whilst the depth depends on the tide, during peak season sunbathing space is precious so get there early.

Where: on the coast of Porto Moniz town centre, 9270-095, Porto Moniz, Madeira island.
Entrance: €1.50

Aquário da Madeira (Aquarium of Madeira)

The old São João Baptista Fort used to have to withstand the roars and gunshots of sea pirates; on the contrary nowadays it's a 'World of Silence' - an aquarium featuring Madeira's oceanic biodiversity in all its glory. Up to 70 species including moray eels, sharks, crustaceans, rays and lots of fish, swim peacefully in its 12 tanks. And you can sit down in special tank-side seats to join in the free-flowing ebb of underwater life. The modernised inside of the old fort shell also contains a laboratory, souvenir shop, exhibition, cafe, bar and library. Ideal on a rainy day and for family with children.

Where: Rua Forte de São João Baptista, 9270-095 Porto Moniz, Madeira island.
Telephone: (+351) 291 850 340
Opening hours: every day from 10:00 - 18:00
Entrance: €7 adults; €4 children over 5, senior citizens and visitors with special needs

Hiking in Porto Moniz

Madeira's walking trails run through carpets of luscious grass often parallel to levadas - Madeira's irrigation channels. Exercise aside, a walk is perhaps the best way to find out about Porto Moniz (and wider Madeira), see fruitful farmlands and spot species of animals and plants endemic to the island.

Vereda da Ribeira da Janela (Trail PR 15)
The remains of an old, beaten track connect the north and the south of Madeira was once used to transport farming produce and barrels of wine between the two coasts as well as firewood from the forest. Unless your Portuguese is proficient or haggling skills well-practised then sadly you won't be hauling any wine back to where you're staying though, just bags!

Starting point: Curral Falso, off ER-209 road
Finishing point: Ribeira da Janela
Highest altitude: 820 metres
Length: 2.7km
Duration: 1.5 hours

Levada dos Cedros (Trail PBTT 2)
Beginning at the water springs of Lombo do Cedro at an altitude of 1,000 metres, this trail weaves through the UNESCO Natural World Heritage Forest of Laurissilva. You will follow the irrigation through a subtropical forest of Tilo trees (Ocotea foetens), Lily-of-the-valley (Clethra foetens), Laurels (Laurus azorica), Madeira Mahogany (Persea indica) and Madeira Blueberry (Vaccinium padifolium). From these, the Tilo trees date back to when the island was first discovered.

Starting point: Fanal, close to ER-209 road
Finishing point: Curral Falso on ER-209 road
Highest altitude: 1,130 metres
Distance: 5.8km
Duration: 3 hours

Levada do Moinho (Trail PR 07)
This track is a bit longer though an absolute gem. Beginning with an uphill climb, you'll soon find yourself drifting forward alongside the canal through the forest. At times the canal splits into tributaries so be wary of staying on track - unless of course you enjoy adventure to the point of getting lost. At one point, to reach your destination of Junquiera, you'll have to go back on yourself as well. You'll also go past ruinous old windmills and a borehole at Pico Alto (made so that two ladies with leprosy could be supplied water without the main flow being contaminated). Moinho was known as the 'Popular Levada' because is irrigated much of the area around Pico Alto.

Starting point: Ribeira da Cruz, off ER-101 road
Finishing point: Junqueira
Highest altitude: 900 metres
Distance 10.3km
Time 3.5 hours

There are also some other, less-trodden hiking routes.

Vereda das Cruzinhas
At Fanal, at the bottom of the Chão da Ribeira valley in Seixal, you can amble along towards Terra Chã at Chão da Ribeira and then pick up the path again. It's not uphill until the end and is fairly flat for most of the way. It is 11km though and will take up to 7 hours.

Cavaca footpath
This popular trail, beginning at Chão da Ribeira, is about 8km long and is characterised by an array of ferns and flowers - including orchids and birds of paradise flowers - instead of trees. There is also a beautiful viewpoint - or belvedere - along the way.

Camping- Parque de Campismo in Ribeira da Janela

Although Porto Moniz is not a rowdy tourist spot, you might prefer to spend your nights away from the city in a grassy camping spot. The campsite is located between Porto Moniz and Seixal down the east coast, it is one of only two official campsites on the whole island. From Porto Moniz it is about 5 minutes drive down the ER-101 road or just a twenty minute walk. Clean, well-kept and spacious at 5,300 square metres, the campsite can get quite busy during July, August and September (though mostly with Portuguese campers). It is quieter though for the rest of the year. Facilities include laundry and cooking areas, first-aid, children's play area, WC, clean showers (you have to pay for hot water) and a mini-market and bar/cafe nearby. One downside is that, aside from a pebble beach and the river mouth, the surrounding area is quite uninspiring meaning you'll probably be driving, walking or cycling to Ribeira da Janela village or Porto Moniz.

Where: Ribeira da Janela Parque de Campismo, 9270-101 Ribeira da Janela, Porto Moniz, Madeira island.
Telephone: +351 291 853 856

Email: p.turismopm@mail.telepac.pt

Opening times: year-round 09:30- 21:30

Campsite fees: per person: from 3-25 years old €1.70; over 25 years €2.80

Tent prices: up to 4m2 - €3; 4m2 to 12m2 - €4; 12m2 to 25m2 - €5; over 25m2 - €7;

Tent deposit: €25; reservation deposit: €75

Getting there: if driving, turn off the ER-101 road between Porto Moniz and Seixal. If coming from Funchal you'll need to take the ER-101 west then the ER-104 north and then rejoins the ER-101 west towards and through Seixal.

Bus 80 goes through Calheta in the south and stops at most villages on the west coast (about 3 hours); bus 139 goes up from Ribeira Brava north to São Vicente on the coast. Ask the driver though because some buses turn off before the north coast (2 hours).

Canyoning in Porto Moniz

For a completely different perspective on the multi-layered, volcanic landscape that composes Porto Moniz and Madeira you could try canyoning. Alongside activities such as rock climbing, abseiling, walking and swimming, this is an extremely physically demanding way to explore hidden caves, rock pools and walkways - and you need to be in good shape to be able to do it. That's not to say that you can't try it if you've never done it before; there are companies and instructors available to accompany and assist you.

Some of the canyoning routes within the municipal of Porto Moniz are:

Ribeira do Inferno
Location: São Vicente / Seixal
Altitude: at start - 640 metres; at end - 50 metres
Time for descent: 4.5 - 5.0 hours

Ribeira da Hortelã
Location: Chão da Ribeira - Seixal
Altitude: at start - 742 metres; at end - 495 metres
Time for descent: 4.0 - 4.5 hours

Ribeira de Seixal
Location: Seixal
Altitude: at start - 960 metres; at end - 500 metres
Time for descent: 4.5 - 5.0 hour

Beaches:

Praia da Ribeira da Janela beach


This beach is a beauty. The sea is calm and turquoise, the access is good - including for the disabled - and there are some stunning offshore volcanic rock formations. Showers, parking, a lifeguard during peak season, and a nearby campsite and walking routes help in making it the ideal middle ground between overly-touristy and completely isolated.

Where: Ribeira da Janela, 9270-101 Porto Moniz, Madeira island.

Praia da Laje beach

Past the pebble beach you come across as you enter the village of Seixal is a black sand beach, Praia de Laje - also known as Jamaica. This boomerang-shaped black sand bay has good facilities including indoor and outdoor showers as well as a small restaurant. Access is fairly straightforward as there are ramps and there are lifeguards at busy times.

Where: 9270 Seixal, Porto Moniz, Madeira island.

Natural swimming pool and Lava Pool in Porto Moniz

There are two natural swimming pools in Porto Moniz, both located at the waterfront of Villa of Porto Moniz and filled with natural fresh sea water from the Atlantic ocean. Visitors tend to get confused between the two as they are only about 350m apart from each other.

The Natural Swimming Pool
The natural swimming pool though filled with fresh sea water, is man-made. Its pools are spacious and access to them are constructed bearing in mind the elderlies and those with mobility difficulties. Despite being man-made and looking modern, the pools are surrounded by natural volcanic rocks. There is a small entrance fee to enter, EUR1.50.

Where: west side of Porto Moniz waterfront, follow Rua dos Emigrantes. Look for the Orca Restaurant.

The Lava Pools
Although there's no lifeguards, these naturally-formed lava sea pools represent the type of relaxation you couldn't get in any luxury spa. It is totally natural and some stairs has been built to allow for easy access to the pool. These mini lava-maze of rock pools are fun to be explored above and under the water, so don’t forget to bring your goggles. It is definitely worth a visit even if you don’t intend to swim, though when you see it you might change your mind. It could be slippery so do take care.

Where: east side of Porto Moniz waterfront on Rue de Forte de São João Baptista. Near Aquarium and just below the Restaurante Cachalote. An alternate landmark is the Ilheu Mole islet, which can be found just off the lava pools.

Festivals:

Festa do Panelo - January

This festival began by youngsters taking pork left over from Christmas and making it into a meal with cabbages and potatoes often dug up from the land of other people without them knowing! It was all in a good cause though, and so this annual celebration was born. These days potatoes and cabbages still feature, but so does an increasingly diverse range of other local foods. People bring, cook and eat a Portuguese feast on the ground, which is covered with cabbage and bay leaves.

Date: 3rd Sunday in January
Where: Chão da Ribeira do Seixal

Carnaval -Feb/ Mar

Each year on shrove Tuesday, up to 500 people from Villa de Porto Moniz dress up in whacky, colourful costumes and masks and parade through the town from the harbour to the waterfront. This festival is also joined by some who come all the way from Funchal.

Date: Shrove Tuesday (February/March)
Where: Villa de Porto Moniz

Feast of Saint Peter

Festa do São Pedro - This is the only festival honouring a patron saint to be celebrated across the whole region. It has grown in popularity over the years, from smaller village celebrations to ones which now have sponsors as well as food and drink for sale.

Date: June 28th - 29th
Where: Lamaceiros, Porto Moniz

Semana do Mar (Week of the Sea) - July

The town's residents and tourists alike congregate by the water for this week-long nautical party. The main event is the sea games: teams from each region of Madeira compete against each other in canoeing, sailing and swimming to name a few. It also features live shows from traditional and modern bands and singers. Plenty of other entertainment is available, and the blue flag - a symbol of water quality - is flown on the beach.

Date: 1st week of July
Where: Villa de Porto Moniz

Porto Moniz Agricultural Fair - July

Agricultural farming has been a staple in this part of the island for centuries, and its rustic routes are still celebrated in the form of this summer get-together. Organised by the Secretaria Regional do Ambiente e Recursos Naturais (The Regional Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources), there is an emphasis on sustainability and locality of produce. The first event took place in 1956 with just cattle; goats, sheep and pigs have since been added. All animals are on display in both their living and dead forms, and there's an award for 'Best Animal'. Tuck into delicious espetadas (seasoned meat kebabs) or take part in other forms of entertainment amongst tens of hundreds of visitors.

Date: 2nd week of July
Where: Sítio das Portas da Vila; on the ER-101 road out of Porto Moniz and through Santa.

Christmas Lights - December

Just like the rest of Madeira municipals, the Christmas lights are lit on first week of December in the region of Porto Moniz, marking the exciting anticipation of the festivity.

When: 1st week of December
Where: The whole municipal, and the rest of Madeira island

New Year's Eve - December

Though most visitors pitch up in the summer months, if you are fortunate enough to be around during the calmer winter period and New Year's Eve then be sure to be out and about in Porto Moniz. A shimmering splash of fireworks are fired into the night sky above the ocean; the bangs break the silence reminding you of your mid-Atlantic location. Afterwards, head to the streets to celebrate throughout the night.

Date: 31st December
Where: Villa de Porto Moniz

Restaurants:

The waterfront area of Villa de Porto Moniz offers not only the wonderful seafront promenade, natural swimming pool, lava rock pools and the Aquarium of Madeira, but also a good selection of restaurants and cafes. You don’t have to travel far from the main attractions to a nice meal or a bite to eat.

Restaurante Polo Norte

Grilled meat and seafood from Portugal and Madeira are the orders of the day at this delightfully bright restaurant. An extensive menu beckons and includes many specialities including local trout stuffed with ham, mussels, octopus and kebab with local meat. For your money €15 - €20 - you'll also be able to soak up the sun on an outdoor terrace overlooking the sapphire sea.

Where:  Vila de Porto Moniz at the round about behind the natural swimming pool, Rua dos Emigrantes, 9270-095 Porto Moniz , Madeira island.
Opening times: 12:00 - 22:00 every day
Telephone: (+351) 291 853 322

Restaurante Orca

Magnificent views over the open ocean and the natural swimming pools. Specialities including tomato soup with black swordfish and tuna steak. The average price is €13.

Address: Frente de Mar de Porto Moniz, 9270 Porto Moniz, Madeira island
Telephone: (+351) 291 850 000

Restaurante O Cachalote

Translated O cachalote means 'sperm whale' and although this eatery specialise in Madeiran seafood, there's none of the creature made famous in its name on the menu. You can enjoy local specialities and seafood in this classic restaurant that is nestled on some rocks overlooking Porto Moniz's coastline, and the natural lava pools. It's mid price-range, about €17 for a meal. A favourite is fresh limpets with rice 'arroz lapas'.

Address: Rua Forte de São João Batista, 9270 Porto Moniz, Madeira island.
Opening hours: every day for lunch 12:00- 18:00
Telephone: (+351) 291 853 180